Hi All,

I am looking for 1...actually I will take 2 if they are a
pair....rabbits to share my home. I live in a 2 bedroom unit that they
can run around in and I will be getting a large cage for my balcony
incase they want some fresh air.

I live in a quiet street in Gladesville (city side of Ryde) and have
owned rabbits previously.

Ideally I would like to rescue a bunny or adopt one in need - not
interested in buying from breeders at the moment as the little bunnies
would only be pets for me to lavish with attention.

If you know of any buns that would suit a indoors environment - are
affectionate and would love attention let me know.

Sonya

Maybie she was too young? i have been lucki i think,, i had a mle for bout 5
years then got a female from the shelter,, and they have had 3 litters since,,
and she had 4 first time 5 next and 6 on the next unfortunatly for the first
time on the litter she had now,, we lost one at three weeks,, i8 put that down
to changing from mums milk to the grain,, might ave been too earli ,, but my
girl has been good,, is the box enclosed so you cant look,, no disturbing the
mum?
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: diamonds_lm
   To: AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...
   Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 10:26 AM
   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Rabbit Breeding


   Hi everyone I am new to the group my name is Leonie and am hoping to
   find some information and help on rabbit breeding.   We have four
   rabbits well my kids have four rabbits LOL.  A female rabbit on the
   weekend had 5 baby rabbits unfornuately by Sunday all of them had
   died.  The mother didn't seem to be interested in her babies at all
   my DH managed to get the last surviving rabbit to latch on to the
   mother but by morning it appeared she had buried it underneath all
   the hay.  Is this normal for a first time mum,  will she do this for
   subsequent births or will she get the hang of what to do.  My eldest
   daughter was pretty upset by it and if this going to happen all the
   time  I think the best thing to do would be desexing.  We have never
   owned rabbits before so I really have no idea.  Any advice would be
   greatly appreciated.  Thanks
   Cheers
   Leonie




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

rabbit pellets [not the crap with seeds etc in it, just plain pellets] and a
selection of leafy greens like boc choy, cos lettuce, parsley, and chicory. But
most importantly, good quality hay. Where are you?
Joelle
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: monkeys_2020
   To: AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...
   Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:50 PM
   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits a new zealand rabbits


   what do a white new zealand rabbits eat someone pm me back as soon
   as possble




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

what do a white new zealand rabbits eat someone pm me back as soon
as possble

will she do this for
subsequent births or will she get the hang of what to do.  My eldest
daughter was pretty upset by it and if this going to happen all the
time  I think the best thing to do would be desexing.


There are thousands of healthy but unwanted rabbits put to death in animal
shelters every week. There is absolutely no justification for breeding more. I
don't mean to sound harsh but this is something I feel strongly about - your
rabbits could have up to 8 babies every time, and they can get pregnant again on
the same day they give birth. How are you going to find good homes for all those
babies? Because that will be your responsibility if you allow them to be born.
Separate the males from the females now and have them all desexed ASAP, is my
heartfelt advice. They will be happier, healthier [risk of uterine cancer for
unspayed females is extremely high] and less destructive. Please don't let them
breed. Have a look at the House Rabbit Society website rabbit.org for some good
info.
Joelle


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi everyone I am new to the group my name is Leonie and am hoping to
find some information and help on rabbit breeding.   We have four
rabbits well my kids have four rabbits LOL.  A female rabbit on the
weekend had 5 baby rabbits unfornuately by Sunday all of them had
died.  The mother didn't seem to be interested in her babies at all
my DH managed to get the last surviving rabbit to latch on to the
mother but by morning it appeared she had buried it underneath all
the hay.  Is this normal for a first time mum,  will she do this for
subsequent births or will she get the hang of what to do.  My eldest
daughter was pretty upset by it and if this going to happen all the
time  I think the best thing to do would be desexing.  We have never
owned rabbits before so I really have no idea.  Any advice would be
greatly appreciated.  Thanks
Cheers
Leonie

JEANS!!! How long are you guys going to keep those size 3 jeans in the closet
for? You know for as long as you have them, you wont fit into them. So let the
rats enjoy em! I put all my old jeans (or the ones that don't fit anymore, lol)
into my rattie cages. they just love to shred em! Takes them time too. You can
cut them up or add them in whole. its the perfect snuggli nest for them. Its
also a way for you to lose the weight. I can almost bet after you get rid of all
the jeans you held onto for so long is when your gonna lose the pounds!

COFFEE CAN Hide outs-- Don't throw out them coffee cans anymore. I use them in
place of those expensive igloos or cardboard tubes. Just replace every time you
finish off the coffee can. If you do keep them longer, make sure to dry well
after cleaning to avoid rusting. the plastic ones should be replaced after
chewing.

BEDDING-- Save $$ on  carefresh and add in cut up jeans, or blankets to your
bedding. (Not recommended for litters of babies.) Be sure to use tough material
that is not easily shredded. i mix carefresh and blankies together. I get double
the use out of the expensive carefresh and still controls odor. Easier to
freshen by removing washable bedding and adding in clean ones.

Ceramic Pet Bowls-- Forget Petco or any other pet store, your local dollar store
carries them dirt cheap! I still have a ceramic feeding bowl i bought 4 years
ago. I paid a dollar for it.

TREATS- Rawhide in bulk, or biscuits in bulk. Sometimes cheaper than buying the
box. Also bake your own or make your own recipe. I sometimes make dog biscuits
for my ratties. When time is a factor, i buy the milkbones in bulk. I can get 5
lbs for under $3.00. Email me for a homemade recipe or where you can buy a mix
to bake on your own if you wish.

CAGE CLEANER-- Water/white vinegar/ tea tree oil. Add in a spray bottle for
between cleanings or use in the bucket for deep cleaning.

DIRTY RATTIES! Use a small litter or shoe box and add in the (clean and bug
free) digging soil! Cheap and dirty fun for them!

NEWSPAPERS-- Save them for the bottom of cages if you have a rattie that can't
use regular bedding. it will help soak up urine. I use it in my recovery cage
for ratties in recovery.
I place newspaper on the bottom and lay a thick blanket or towel on top. Then I
add more cut up blankets to make more bedding. Sometimes ratties after surgery
cannot have loose bedding such as carefresh or aspen.

No time to cut up fresh??? Buy your fruits or veggies in advance and cut up for
the next few days ahead of time. saves $$ and time, and your ratties prefer
fresh over canned, trust me.
No more throwing out soggy veggies or fruit. Plan to buy twice a week to ensure
fresh and crisp food for them.

I am sure there are plenty more out there! Just some ideas for the newbies and
the thrifty fanciers!
                                                  Enjoy!
                                                       Randi







Pet Rat Care, Rescue, & Promotion
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Rat_Lovers_United
The Logical Choice Pet Food: http://TLCPet.com/8822
All Natural - Super Premium - Holistic Formula
Shure Pets Products & Gifts: www.shurepets.com ID#0066























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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I apologize to the ppl who were waiting for this, sorry it took me so long!

This is not carved in stone as everyone is entitled to thier own opinions. I am
sharing this with you that I recieved from one of my nutrition classes at
school. It helped me realize a little more about the food I feed my pets as the
common consumer. I am not certified in Pet Nutrition and am not claiming dry
foods/canned foods are better than any other diet you may be feeding your pet.
As always, please check with your veterinarian if you plan to switch your pets
diets around and / or supplements in the case your pet  has specific nutritional
needs.

Have you ever wondered "what is this ingredient for?" This is an ingredient list
that will help for Rats, Dogs, Cats, Rabbits, Ferrets, etc. (Not All Ingredients
May Be Found)  You will find these ingredients in many pet foods whether its for
dogs or small critters. This is some FYI, so print this out and take it with you
the next time you shop for your pet food or plan to change to a new pet food.
This list can help you in making that decision. As this list is intended
specifically for dogs and cats, everything found in small animal foods may not
be listed and can be found by researching. But there still are plenty of
ingredients listed here that is found in small animal foods today.

Thanks and happy learning!


Apples-- Natural source of calcium, iron, and vitamin A,C, K, and high in fiber.

Ascorbic Acid-- Stabilized form of vitamin C (natural antioxidant which works
synergistically with vitamin E.

Barley--The entire barley kernel ground or chopped; a  source of carbohydrates
and essential fatty acids.

Biotin-- (a B vitamin) involved in the synthesis of fatty acids, non essential
amino acids, and purine.

Blueberries-- Natural antioxident and high in vitamin C.

Borage oil-- Vegetable oil, source of a-linolenic acid, a non inflammatory omega
6 fatty acid. It helps to maintain skin moisture, block inflammatory substances
and reduce redness and itching of skin.

Brewers Yeast-- Dried non-fermentative yeast (Saccharomyces) resulting from the
brewing of beer; an source of protiens and vitamins; also used to enhance
palatability.

Brewers Rice-- Broken rice; a source of carbohydrates, protien and fiber.

Brown Rice-- Superior carbohydrate source and high in B vitamins; whole, broken
or ground kernals of rice not seperated from the bran.

Calcium Carbonate--mineral supplement containing 38% calcium; source of calcium)
(calcium is necessary for proper bone growth and maintenance, as well as muscle
contraction, nerve impulse transmission, and blood coagulation)

Clacium Iodate-- most stable form of iodine; contains 63.5% iodine.

Calcium Pantothenate-- (pantothenic acid, a B vitamin) involved in carbohydrate,
fat, and protien metabolism.

Canola Oil--Oil with lowest saturated fat thats high in essential fatty acids
(Omega 3); oil obtained from the pressing of grapeseed, which are processed for
edible purposes.

Capsicum-- Natural antioxident that may improve circulation; a derivative of
cayenne pepper.

Chamomile--May have wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties; soothes the
stomach.

Cheese-- Quality protien source; product obtained by dehydrating cheeses--no
more than 10% of the fat may be other than milk fat.

Chelated minerals-- Minerals absorbed by the body easier and retained longer;
minerals attached to amino acids. ( they will end in proteinate)

Chicken-- source of high quality protien ( the clean combination of flesh and
skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts or whole
carcasses of chicken or a combination thereof, exclusive of feathers, heads,
feet, and entrails.)

Chicken by-product meal-- ground rendered, clean parts of chicken, such as
necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers. Source of
protien. (meal=dyhydrated and ground form of the ingredient.) When the word
poultry is used instead of "chicken", the meal contains other poultry sources
such as turkey.

Chicken by-products-- clean parts of chicken, such as necks, feet, undeveloped
eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers. source of protien & fat, lartge
percentage is water. ( When "poultry" is used instead of chicken, the meal
contains other sources such as turkey.

Chicken fat-- (preserved with mixed tocopherals) Highly palatable and high in
Omega 6  and other essential fatty acids, such as arachidonic acid; fat obtained
from the tissues of chicken during the rendering process.
(when the word "poultry"  is used instead of chicken, the meal contains other
sources such as turkey.

Chicken Flavor--used in small amounts to coat the outside of kibble- a flavor
enhancer.

Chicken Liver-- Liver obtained from chicken, excellent source of protien and
vitamin A.

Chicken Meal-- dry renedered product from clean poultry flesh and skin without
bone--does not contain feathers, heads, feet, or entrails. good source of
protien, fat, calcium, and phosphorus.  When the word "poultry" is used instead
of chicken, the meal contains other sources such as turkey.

Chicory extract-- a source of fructo oligosaccharides (FOS) Stimulates growth of
beneficial bacteria in the digestive system, while inhibiting the growth of
pathogenic (disease causing) bacteria.

Choline Chloride-- complex vitamin B is essential in synaptic transmission of
nerve impulses and is an integral part of cellular membranes.

Chondroitin Sulfate-- Naturally occuring compound associated with joint health
(acts as a building block for health cartilage and inhibits enzymes from
degrading healthy cartilage.

Cinnamon-- May protect against arthritis.

Copper proteinate-- Chelated source of copper ( copper is necessary for the
absorption and transportation of dietary iron)

Copper Sulfate--Non chelated source of copper, not as absobable as copper
proteinate.

Corn cellulose-- purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by
processing alpha cellulose obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant material.

Corn Flour-- entire corn kernal ground or chopped, a  source of carbohydrates,
fiber and essential fatty acids.

Corn Gluten-- Dried residue from corn after the removal of starch, germ, and
bran. Highly digestable, low ash protein source.

Dandelion-- May act as a blood cleanser.

Dehydrated alfalfa meal-- aerial portion of the alfalfa plant, a potent, natural
antioxident and natural source of vitamins. High in vitamin K.

Dicalcium Phosphate-- antioxident, mineral supplement containing approximately
20% calcium and 18% phosphorus; source of calcium & phosphorus which is
imporatnt for bone growth and maintenance.

DL-methionine--amino acid necessary for growth and protien synthesis; can also
acidify urine (decrease ph)

Died Egg Product-- High quality protien with superior bioavailability (dried
whole puoltry egs freed of moisture by thermal means.)

Dried Enterocococcus diacetylactis fermentation product,
Dried Enterococcus faecium fermentation product,
Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation product,
Dried Lactobacillus casei fermentation product,
Dried Lactobacillus lactis fermentation product,
Dried Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation product,:
Products derived from culturing micro organisms on the appropriate medium and
dried in accordance to approved manufacturing processes. Used as a source of
beneficial intestinal bacteria (probiotic). Very fragile, must be aded to food
after extrusion.

Ferrous sulfate-- non cheltaed source of iron.

Fish-- cleaned tissue of whole fish or fish cutings; good source of protien,
fat, calcium and the amino acid in taurine; contains omega 3 fatty acids.

Fish Meal-- ground tissue of undercomposed whole fish or fish cuttings; good
source of proien, fat calcium, phosphorus and the amino acid taurine.

Fish oil-- obtained from fish; source of omega 3 fatty acids.

Flax-- Rich in omega 3 fatty acids, high in fermentable fibers.

Folic acid supplement-- a B vitamin for cellular growth and maturation.

Garlic-- may enhance the immune system.

Ginger-- May enhance the immune system, dried root of the plant.

Glucosamine Hydrochloride-- Naturally occurring compound associated with joint
health. works synergistically with chodroitin sulfate.

Grapefood Extract- potenet antioxident.

Green Tea- an source of polyphenols- potent antioxidents. Also have been shown
to fight viruses, slow aging, and to have other health benefits.

Iron proteinate-- chelated form of iron. Iron is necessary for oxygen
transportation.

Kelp-- Natural mineral supplement. Dried seaweed, source of iodine. ( necessary
for the synthesis of thyroid hormones) and vitamin K.

Lamb- Flesh of lamb, with or without bone, free of other products that are
unavoidable in processing. ( source of protien, fat, calcium, phosphorus,
largest percentage is water)

Lamb Meal--the rendered product from lamb tissue, exclusive of blod, hair, hoof,
horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen contents except in such amounts
as may occur unavoidably in processing practices, source of protien and
minerals. Is higher in ash than chicken by product meal or chicken meal.

L-ascorbyl-2-polyophosphate-- absorbic acid derivative (source of vitamin C)

L-carnitine-- helps burn fat & maintain muscle mas during weight loss.

L-lysine-- amino acid for growth and protien synthesis.

Magnesium Oxide- source of magnesium, part of bone and functions in a number of
metabolic reactions.

Maganese Oxide-- non chelated source of maganese.

Manganese proteinate-- chelated source of manganese, a part of cell enzymes
which catalyze metabolic reactions.

Monosodium phosphate-- mineral supplement containing approximatley 21%
phosphorus and 32% sodium, source of phosphorus.

Natural Flavor-- Clean animal tissue or the material from the chemical and/or
enzymatic breakdown of clean animal tissue, used to enhance the palatability of
products.

Niacin supplement-- the third B vitamin which functions in the metabolism of
fats, carbohydrates, and protien.

Oatmeal-- Source of of carbohydrates and fiber, high in iron, consists of broken
and finely ground oat groats along with a small amount of oat hulls. ( lowered
glucose curve after eating helps the pet feel full longer.)

Paprika-- Natural antioxident.

Pea Fiber--a form non fermentable fiber which is used to help prevent hairballs
from forming.

Potassium Chloride-- mineral supplement containing approximatly 52% potassium (
an electrolyte which maintains proper fluid volume required for numerous
enzymatic reactions, and aids in the ransmission of nerve impulses and the
contraction of muscle.) and 48% chloride ( an electrolyte for proper acid base
balance and water balance within the body. is also a part of hydrochloric acid
which initiates digestion within the stomach) Used a a source of potassium and
chloride.

Potassium Citrate-- sodium salt of citic acid- source of potassium.

Powdered Cellulose-- non ferementable fiber- purified, mechanically
disintigrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose obtained as a
pulp from fiberous plant materials.

Pryridoxine hydrochloride-- Vitamin B-6, for amino acid metabolism, and to a
lesser extent metabolism of glucose and faty acids, also important in the
synthesis of red blood cells.

Riboflavin Suplement-- Vitamin B2, involved in the metabolism of fats,
carbohydrates, and protien.

Rice Flour-- soft, finely ground meal obtained from milling rice; source of
carbohydrates.

Rice gluton-- dried residue from rice after the removal of the starch, germ, and
bran; source of digestable low ash protien.

Rice hulls-- outer coating of white or brown rice; non fermentable fiber source
which helps to form a firm stool.

Rosemary Extract-- extract of rosemary a potenet antioxident.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae ferementation solubles-- source of mannan
oligosaccharides (MOS) a prebiotic which stimulates the intestinal immune system
and helps prevent the growth of harmful bacteria.

Sage- Natural antioxident , dried herb.

Salmon Oil-- the oil from salmon, high in omega 3 fatty acids, and for the
control of inflammation throughout the body.

Salt-- Vital for celluler health; mineral supplement containing aproximatly 39%
sodium and 61% chloride.

Sodium Bisulfate-- Salt.

Sodium caseinate-- solid material obtained from milk by precipitation; source of
high quality protien.

Sodium selenite-- source of selenium. ( selenium protects cell membranes from
oxidative damage.  Has a close relationship with vitamin E)

Spinach-- source of lutein and a natural antioxident.

Spray Dried Chicken-- sparyed on food, increases palatability of food.

Spray Dried Chicken Liver-- chicken liver broth sprayed on food, increases
palatability of food.

Spray Dried whole eggs-- egg protien.

Sunflower Meal-- source of B vitamins, vitamin E, calcium, iron , and fiber. Up
to 24% protien.

Sweet Potatoes-- High in fiber and vitamin C & E and carbohydrate source. Whole
potatoes and pieces obtained from the processing of potatoes for human
consumption.

Taurine-- amino acd; essential amino acid in cats. New Researches now pointingto
the dietary taurine being important for canine health.

Thiamine mononitrate-- vitamin B-1; more stable than other forms of B-1 in the
presence of water.

Tomato pomance-- Natural source of fiber and vitamin A; solid residue that
remains after juices are extracted.

Tuna Oil-- contains mega 3 fatty acids.

Turkey-- clean combination of poultry flesh and skin with or without bone-- does
not contain feathers, heads, feet or entrails; source of protien and fat.

Vegetable Oil--oil obtained from the seeds of plants, which are processed for
edible purposes; source of energy and essential fatty acids.

Vitamin A acetate-- source of vitamin A.

Vitamin A supplement-- vitamin A for vision, bone growth, reproduction, and skin
maintenance.

Vitamin B12 supplement-- (also called cobalamin) contains the mineral cobalt and
is for fat carbohydrate metabolism and for myelin synthesis. ( coating the
nerves)

Vitamin C supplement-- not considered essential for dogs and cats, (but
necessary for Guinea Pigs) it is added to foods for its potent antioxident
properties.

Vitamin E supplement one of the most potent antioxidents.

Vitamin D3 supplement-- (cholecalciferol) involved in the regulation of calcium
and phosphorus metabolism; can be produced in the skin when the skin is exposed
to sunlight.

Yucca schidigera extract-- may reduce fecal odor, derived from juice and stalk
of plant; reduces ammonia production, increases organic matter digestion.

Zeolite-- mineral used in puppy foods and some cat fods. Aids in decreasing the
risk of diarrhea and helps prevent the absorption of toxins in the intestine.

Zinc Oxide-- non chelated source of zinc.

Zinc proteinate-- chelated source of zinc; influences carbohydrates, fat,
protein, and nucleic acid synthesis. An important factor in cellular immunity
and reproduction. Important for skin and eye health.











Pet Rat Care, Rescue, & Promotion
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Rat_Lovers_United
Shure Pet Products  @ www.shurepets.com ID# 0066
TLC Whole Life Pet Food @ http://TLCPet.com/8822







































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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey everyone, does anyone have any connections in Japan to help out our fellow
fancier? Please email David at dginsb1213@... as he may not be a member on
some of these lists. Thanks,
                                            Randi


David <dginsb1213@...> wrote:
To: Rat-Adoption@yahoogroups.com
From: "David" <dginsb1213@...>
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 02:53:37 -0000
Subject: [Rat-Adoption] Rats in Japan?



Hi, my name is David - and I just joined.  I live in Kyoto, Japan, and
have been searching everywhere, online and offline, for a hairless rat.

Obviously I can't get one shipped to me due to shipping charges and
such... so I was wondering if anyone in this group knows anyone or any
place, in Japan, to get a hairless rat?

Thanks!
David


Pet Rat Care, Rescue, & Promotion
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Rat_Lovers_United
Shure Pet Products  @ www.shurepets.com ID# 0066
TLC Whole Life Pet Food @ http://TLCPet.com/8822








































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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi All, i'm new to having rats so if you would like to message me
fill free to do so.i will be getting pics of mt mice soon.

Hi all - my wife and I are vegetarian animal lovers and recently
discovered several wild mice at the bottom of our canary aviaries,
(our 3 cats are buds with the local and caged birds and, thus, merely
took a bored interest in these new arrivals), so I tracked down a
friendly trap.

(I can highly reccomend a long, blue, bent, plastic tube that
Bunnings
sells for only $2 - and peanut-butter DOES work!)

So, the Wild Friendlies start arriving into the trap: 2, then 2 then
1, then another and another... A week later, we THINK we now have 14
BEAUTIFUL mice housed with water, food, toilet rolls and shredded
paper and a wonderful $2.50 wheel - up to EIGHT of them having a ball
together; spinning and spinning and spinning.

No fighting, of course, because it's all one family. Dad, (I think)
and
one particular baby are the mainstayers on the wheel - and this baby
will even stay on it while I push it around and around - WHEEEE!!!

Okay, guys, now WHAT!??? We are not stupid and cannot afford to have
them all neutered and we will NOT take them to RSPCA to be
euthanised... Is it fair to release them near a creek, or in a
cemetary, or...?

Any advice???

regards, J & J.

Sounds to us like that you have got two boys.The two boys we have got fight
and smell as well .

-------Original Message-------

From: AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...
Date: 03/22/05 06:57:56
To: AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...
Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 185

There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

       1. Questions about New Female? Mice
            From: "estrellita228" <estrellita228@...>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
    Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 20:39:11 -0000
    From: "estrellita228" <estrellita228@...>
Subject: Questions about New Female? Mice


My bf and I recently purchased two female? mice from Petco.  For the
first two days, I only opened their cage to give the new food, toy,
or water.  However, on the third day, we took them out of the cage
to change some of their bedding.  I think that my mice are royally
p'ed off at us for having handled them.  The more extroverted one
now drums her tail against the cage whenever she sees me.  Does this
mean that she's scared of me?  How and when should I try to tame my
mice?

Also, um, we've noticed a peculiar bulge underneath their tail.  I
don't want to pick them up again yet to examine the distance between
anus and genitalia to sex them.  We specifically requested two mice
from the cage marked "female" because we wanted to avoid fighting
and the musky odor.  Our mice get along well.  The larger, more
extroverted one will occasionally dart after the other.  But no
squeaking, no fighting, no blood.  And there's a mousey odor, but
since we've never owned mice before, I don't know if this is musk or
a urine/poop smell.  No matter what though, my bf and I have decided
that we love our new snuggle mice.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Take a tour of the AMRIS homepage at:
http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/reserve/5824

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.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oh yes... and I have 4 male mice who are a bit rowdy, but get along okay as
well.
Take Care,
Heather Gerquest

"Our strength is often composed of the weakness we're damned if we're going to
show."
-Mignon McLaughlin
   ----- Original Message -----
   From:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   To:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 2:56 PM
   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 185



   There is 1 message in this issue.

   Topics in this digest:

         1. Questions about New Female? Mice
              From: "estrellita228"
<estrellita228@...<mailto:estrellita228@...>>


   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________

   Message: 1
      Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 20:39:11 -0000
      From: "estrellita228"
<estrellita228@...<mailto:estrellita228@...>>
   Subject: Questions about New Female? Mice


   My bf and I recently purchased two female? mice from Petco.  For the
   first two days, I only opened their cage to give the new food, toy,
   or water.  However, on the third day, we took them out of the cage
   to change some of their bedding.  I think that my mice are royally
   p'ed off at us for having handled them.  The more extroverted one
   now drums her tail against the cage whenever she sees me.  Does this
   mean that she's scared of me?  How and when should I try to tame my
   mice?

   Also, um, we've noticed a peculiar bulge underneath their tail.  I
   don't want to pick them up again yet to examine the distance between
   anus and genitalia to sex them.  We specifically requested two mice
   from the cage marked "female" because we wanted to avoid fighting
   and the musky odor.  Our mice get along well.  The larger, more
   extroverted one will occasionally dart after the other.  But no
   squeaking, no fighting, no blood.  And there's a mousey odor, but
   since we've never owned mice before, I don't know if this is musk or
   a urine/poop smell.  No matter what though, my bf and I have decided
   that we love our new snuggle mice.





   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________


   Take a tour of the AMRIS homepage at:
  
http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/reserve/5824<http://www.geocities.com/petsbur\
gh/reserve/5824>

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   Yahoo! Groups Links




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sounds to me like you have two male mice.  From my experience, when I have
chosen mice out at a store, I find it sometimes very hard to identify the males
from the females.  I think this is usually due to the young age.  Once I named a
mouse Harry, the male and Piper the female... only to find out Harry was
actually Harriot and Piper, well she was really a he, but we still call him
Piper. That wasn't the first time I have had problems.  I now have over a dozen
babies ready for homes and I am still waiting to correctly sex them all.
I don't know why your mouse would be flipping its tail at you.  Work with them. 
I wish that all the babies I have were just flipping tails at me.  They are the
nippiest bunch of buggers I have ever had!

Take Care,
Heather Gerquest

"Our strength is often composed of the weakness we're damned if we're going to
show."
-Mignon McLaughlin
   ----- Original Message -----
   From:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   To:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 2:56 PM
   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 185



   There is 1 message in this issue.

   Topics in this digest:

         1. Questions about New Female? Mice
              From: "estrellita228"
<estrellita228@...<mailto:estrellita228@...>>


   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________

   Message: 1
      Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 20:39:11 -0000
      From: "estrellita228"
<estrellita228@...<mailto:estrellita228@...>>
   Subject: Questions about New Female? Mice


   My bf and I recently purchased two female? mice from Petco.  For the
   first two days, I only opened their cage to give the new food, toy,
   or water.  However, on the third day, we took them out of the cage
   to change some of their bedding.  I think that my mice are royally
   p'ed off at us for having handled them.  The more extroverted one
   now drums her tail against the cage whenever she sees me.  Does this
   mean that she's scared of me?  How and when should I try to tame my
   mice?

   Also, um, we've noticed a peculiar bulge underneath their tail.  I
   don't want to pick them up again yet to examine the distance between
   anus and genitalia to sex them.  We specifically requested two mice
   from the cage marked "female" because we wanted to avoid fighting
   and the musky odor.  Our mice get along well.  The larger, more
   extroverted one will occasionally dart after the other.  But no
   squeaking, no fighting, no blood.  And there's a mousey odor, but
   since we've never owned mice before, I don't know if this is musk or
   a urine/poop smell.  No matter what though, my bf and I have decided
   that we love our new snuggle mice.





   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________


   Take a tour of the AMRIS homepage at:
  
http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/reserve/5824<http://www.geocities.com/petsbur\
gh/reserve/5824>

   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Yahoo! Groups Links




   ------------------------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My bf and I recently purchased two female? mice from Petco.  For the
first two days, I only opened their cage to give the new food, toy,
or water.  However, on the third day, we took them out of the cage
to change some of their bedding.  I think that my mice are royally
p'ed off at us for having handled them.  The more extroverted one
now drums her tail against the cage whenever she sees me.  Does this
mean that she's scared of me?  How and when should I try to tame my
mice?

Also, um, we've noticed a peculiar bulge underneath their tail.  I
don't want to pick them up again yet to examine the distance between
anus and genitalia to sex them.  We specifically requested two mice
from the cage marked "female" because we wanted to avoid fighting
and the musky odor.  Our mice get along well.  The larger, more
extroverted one will occasionally dart after the other.  But no
squeaking, no fighting, no blood.  And there's a mousey odor, but
since we've never owned mice before, I don't know if this is musk or
a urine/poop smell.  No matter what though, my bf and I have decided
that we love our new snuggle mice.

> individual has a different chemical makeup, metabolism, etc.  What
> would be a more humane and acurate way of testing drug and product
> safety and effectiveness.
>
>  Take Care,
> Heather Gerquest
>


See:

http://www.nzavs.org.nz/alternatives.html

and the link from that page.


-------------------------------------------------
phil@...
Phil Clayton, Director
NZ Anti-Vivisection Society (Inc.)
nzavs@...
nzavs@...
http://www.nzavs.org.nz
PO Box 9387
Christchurch, New Zealand

ANIMAL RESEARCH  T A K E S  LIVES - Humans and Animals BOTH Suffer
Read this book on-line at:
http://www.health.org.nz

I guess my response would have to be.....why do we need to test something at
10 times the norm??? ...I am a nurse and i know the value of research but to
what extent???... should we give our animals a specific dose and if it
doesnt die then up the dose....to me thats murder...there are human guinea
pigs out there but they have to follow stringent guidelines so as not to
endanger life,...shouldnt this be the same for animals???....i have 8 rats
and god forbid if i ever hear about lab rats being abused.....god help the
abuser.....but im all for them finding a cure for cancer at the same
time...not only for humans but for rats as well...after all rats have a
higher instance of cancer than humans...but surely we can do this in a safe
and uncruel manner.
oh Heather....lol....dont get me started on this band wagon ill never get
off....lol
I LOVE MY ANIMALS
Deb

>From: "Heather Gerquest" <helgerquest@...>
>Reply-To: AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...
>To: <AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...>
>Subject: Re: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 182
>Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 18:22:24 -0500
>
>..What about the fact that when they... for example, test a drug on a lab
>rat, they state that "liver damage and death ocurred when the lab rat was
>given ten times the average dose" which means that it would be even more
>misleading.  Humans would not be given ten times the average dose of
>something.  I believe that the Reeses (sp) monkey is genetically closer to
>humans than any animal.  Still, even if we had human test subjects, they
>would be inacurate and misleading as each individual has a different
>chemical makeup, metabolism, etc.  What would be a more humane and acurate
>way of testing drug and product safety and effectiveness.
>
>  Take Care,
>Heather Gerquest
>
>"Our strength is often composed of the weakness we're damned if we're going
>to show."
>-Mignon McLaughlin
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From:
>AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@y\
ahoogroups.com.au>
>   To:
>AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@y\
ahoogroups.com.au>
>   Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 7:12 PM
>   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 182
>
>
>
>   There is 1 message in this issue.
>
>   Topics in this digest:
>
>         1. Re: Did you know? - Animal Testing - opinions wanted!!!
>              From: "Phil Clayton"
><nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>>
>
>
>   ________________________________________________________________________
>   ________________________________________________________________________
>
>   Message: 1
>      Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:24:16 +1300
>      From: "Phil Clayton"
><nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>>
>   Subject: Re: Did you know? - Animal Testing - opinions wanted!!!
>
>
>   >
>   > Why would vivsectors carry on doing animal experiments if the
>   > evidence showed so clearly that animal experiments are misleading?
>   >
>
>   "Animal studies are done for legal reasons and not for scientific
>reasons.  The
>   predictive value of such studies for man is meaningless - which means
>our research
>   may be meaningless."
>   (Dr James D. Gallagher, Journal of the American Medical Association, 14
>March
>   1964.)
>
>   Animal experiments are used as an alibi for the multinational drug and
>chemical
>   companies to protect their profits.  They use results from animals
>(misleading due to
>   differences between species) to get their products classed as 'safe' or
>'effective' and
>   thus able to be marketed without fear of having to pay compensation when
>their
>   products have disastrous effects.  Yet, if animal experiments (after the
>product has
>   been released on the market) coincidentally suggest that the product has
>harmful
>   effects, the company can claim that everyone knows that results from
>animals can't
>   be applied to humans.
>
>   The intensive farming industry uses animal experiments in attempts to
>make them
>   more productive (often at the expense of animal welfare); to test and
>produce
>   agricultural chemicals and animal remedies; in toxicological testing to
>try and provide
>   'safety' levels of these chemicals for humans; and in nutritional
>testing to try and
>   'show' that eating animal products is beneficial for the human diet.
>
>   Academic institutions encourage animal experiments as they provide an
>easy
>   method for publishing papers in journals.  The 'reputation' and finances
>of the
>   institutions and the vivisectors are maintained by numbers of papers
>published.
>
>
>   -------------------------------------------------
>   phil@...<mailto:phil@...>
>   Phil Clayton, Director
>   NZ Anti-Vivisection Society (Inc.)
>   nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>
>   nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>
>   http://www.nzavs.org.nz<http://www.nzavs.org.nz/>
>   PO Box 9387
>   Christchurch, New Zealand
>
>   ANIMAL RESEARCH  T A K E S  LIVES - Humans and Animals BOTH Suffer
>   Read this book on-line at:
>   http://www.health.org.nz<http://www.health.org.nz/>
>
>
>
>
>   ________________________________________________________________________
>   ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>   Take a tour of the AMRIS homepage at:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/reserve/5824<http://www.geocities.com/petsbu\
rgh/reserve/5824>
>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>   Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

..What about the fact that when they... for example, test a drug on a lab rat,
they state that "liver damage and death ocurred when the lab rat was given ten
times the average dose" which means that it would be even more misleading. 
Humans would not be given ten times the average dose of something.  I believe
that the Reeses (sp) monkey is genetically closer to humans than any animal. 
Still, even if we had human test subjects, they would be inacurate and
misleading as each individual has a different chemical makeup, metabolism, etc. 
What would be a more humane and acurate way of testing drug and product safety
and effectiveness.

  Take Care,
Heather Gerquest

"Our strength is often composed of the weakness we're damned if we're going to
show."
-Mignon McLaughlin
   ----- Original Message -----
   From:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   To:
AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@...<mailto:AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@ya\
hoogroups.com.au>
   Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 7:12 PM
   Subject: AMRIS Rodents & Rabbits Digest Number 182



   There is 1 message in this issue.

   Topics in this digest:

         1. Re: Did you know? - Animal Testing - opinions wanted!!!
              From: "Phil Clayton"
<nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>>


   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________

   Message: 1
      Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:24:16 +1300
      From: "Phil Clayton" <nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>>
   Subject: Re: Did you know? - Animal Testing - opinions wanted!!!


   >
   > Why would vivsectors carry on doing animal experiments if the
   > evidence showed so clearly that animal experiments are misleading?
   >

   "Animal studies are done for legal reasons and not for scientific reasons. 
The
   predictive value of such studies for man is meaningless - which means our
research
   may be meaningless."
   (Dr James D. Gallagher, Journal of the American Medical Association, 14 March
   1964.)

   Animal experiments are used as an alibi for the multinational drug and
chemical
   companies to protect their profits.  They use results from animals (misleading
due to
   differences between species) to get their products classed as 'safe' or
'effective' and
   thus able to be marketed without fear of having to pay compensation when their
   products have disastrous effects.  Yet, if animal experiments (after the
product has
   been released on the market) coincidentally suggest that the product has
harmful
   effects, the company can claim that everyone knows that results from animals
can't
   be applied to humans.

   The intensive farming industry uses animal experiments in attempts to make
them
   more productive (often at the expense of animal welfare); to test and produce
   agricultural chemicals and animal remedies; in toxicological testing to try
and provide
   'safety' levels of these chemicals for humans; and in nutritional testing to
try and
   'show' that eating animal products is beneficial for the human diet.

   Academic institutions encourage animal experiments as they provide an easy
   method for publishing papers in journals.  The 'reputation' and finances of
the
   institutions and the vivisectors are maintained by numbers of papers
published.


   -------------------------------------------------
   phil@...<mailto:phil@...>
   Phil Clayton, Director
   NZ Anti-Vivisection Society (Inc.)
   nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>
   nzavs@...<mailto:nzavs@...>
   http://www.nzavs.org.nz<http://www.nzavs.org.nz/>
   PO Box 9387
   Christchurch, New Zealand

   ANIMAL RESEARCH  T A K E S  LIVES - Humans and Animals BOTH Suffer
   Read this book on-line at:
   http://www.health.org.nz<http://www.health.org.nz/>




   ________________________________________________________________________
   ________________________________________________________________________


   Take a tour of the AMRIS homepage at:
  
http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/reserve/5824<http://www.geocities.com/petsbur\
gh/reserve/5824>

   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Yahoo! Groups Links




   ------------------------------------------------------------------------






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
> Why would vivsectors carry on doing animal experiments if the
> evidence showed so clearly that animal experiments are misleading?
>

“Animal studies are done for legal reasons and not for scientific reasons.  The
predictive value of such studies for man is meaningless - which means our
research
may be meaningless.”
(Dr James D. Gallagher, Journal of the American Medical Association, 14 March
1964.)

Animal experiments are used as an alibi for the multinational drug and chemical
companies to protect their profits.  They use results from animals (misleading
due to
differences between species) to get their products classed as ‘safe’ or
‘effective’ and
thus able to be marketed without fear of having to pay compensation when their
products have disastrous effects.  Yet, if animal experiments (after the product
has
been released on the market) coincidentally suggest that the product has harmful
effects, the company can claim that everyone knows that results from animals
can’t
be applied to humans.

The intensive farming industry uses animal experiments in attempts to make them
more productive (often at the expense of animal welfare); to test and produce
agricultural chemicals and animal remedies; in toxicological testing to try and
provide
‘safety’ levels of these chemicals for humans; and in nutritional testing to try
and
‘show’ that eating animal products is beneficial for the human diet.

Academic institutions encourage animal experiments as they provide an easy
method for publishing papers in journals.  The ‘reputation’ and finances of the
institutions and the vivisectors are maintained by numbers of papers published.


-------------------------------------------------
phil@...
Phil Clayton, Director
NZ Anti-Vivisection Society (Inc.)
nzavs@...
nzavs@...
http://www.nzavs.org.nz
PO Box 9387
Christchurch, New Zealand

ANIMAL RESEARCH  T A K E S  LIVES - Humans and Animals BOTH Suffer
Read this book on-line at:
http://www.health.org.nz

What exactly would you prefer to take:
a drug tested on mice or one tested on cells exactly similar to the
ones in your own body?

Did you know, Individual laboratory mice can cost up to $100 each!

Why would vivsectors carry on doing animal experiments if the
evidence showed so clearly that animal experiments are misleading?

Did you know:
Rats are used in psycology experiments?

Your opinions to these comments are most welcome, whatever view you
have....
thanks all,
Rebekah.

I have 3 female rats free to good homes in Bayswater North Victoria.
They are pure white and about six monts old.
Please phone me, Rebekah on 03 9729 8828

Thank you kindly to the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals in Auckland, New Zealand for adding this club to their list
of links.

Please visit their site, and take a trip to The Land of the Long
White Cloud:

http://www.spca.org.nz/links.htm

These were the questions that I was asked by Scott, the writer
doinging the article.

1) Why was the Norway rat, and not the roof rat, domesticated?
>
>2) What about the rat made it a good pet, historically speaking.

My reply is in the previous message,before this one,and since I have
spent the past two years raising my own babies my knowledge might be
a little rusty.

I have invited him to this club - so if you think you can add
anything or have the answer to these questions please post them, so
he can read them also - thanks Rebekah

Hello members!
Can someone else read this and varify my facts with me please?I sent
this to a gentleman who is about to publish an article in a well
known rat magazine.
I'd just like it proof read!
thanks heaps rebekah.
Please reply to me directly on:
amris_rodents@...




Rats were first domesticated in England (around the late 17th century
to early 18th century?).
Black (roof) rats are smaller than brown rats. They arrived in Europe
before the brown and took to country life quite well, enjoying the
thatched rooves and trees to nest in, and well stocked kitchens. They
are climbers and prefer to live off ground, sometimes taking over
birds nests.
Brown (Norway) rats are land dwellers and adapt more readily to many
more different habitats.

In about 1345 the rats carrying the black death arrived in England -
apparently the species was the black/roof rat.

In the middle of the 14th century in Europe the Black Death wiped out
at least twenty five million people.  From the early 18th century
onward there was a reduction in outbreaks and deaths from the plague,
which some experts at the time attributed to that fact that with the
arrival of the brown rat, the black rat, - the primary carrier of the
Black Death - ,had been ousted.

More to the point, the flea which carries the plague - pulex
irritans - which spred the plague liked the blood of the black rat,
but disliked that of the brown. Hence, avoiding the plague and with
habitat change upon the arrival of the Industrial Revolution, the
black rat became less common. The brown, who could adapt better -
which proberly later lead to easier breeding in captivity - soon out-
numbered the black. With the industrial revolution, gone were the
many thatched rooves, with well stocked kitchens and gardens with
many trees and it's traditional food of bugs, moths and beetles,
which the black rat enjoyed and thrived in.
In a short time most of England became brown rat territory.

Brown rats loved the rotting animal flesh at knackers yards, the
house maids food scraps thrown in the yard - they enjoyed th filthy
ports.
They were bigger than the black and it is said the all but compleatly
erradicated their smaller predecessor by way of taking over where
opportunity and man's social climate let them.
Rats are peace loving by nature. They raise young in colonies where
males, brothers and fathers and uncles live together without the
typical territory battles that males from other species have. Females
have a strong maternal erge, where they can  foster orphaned baby
rats in their colony.
I guess this close existance with man set the brown rat up as a
candidate for medical research, ultimately to domestication and
selective breeding. Readily avalible, to be trapped by 'pest
controllers' of the time, adaptable and relatively peaceful by
nature, they became domesticated quite easily.

In a message dated 2/11/2005 7:21:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
amris_rodents@... writes:


Thank you so much for your reply.
I do most of my work by snail-mail too.
I believe it is the most effective means of written protest.
I'll certainly get back to you at a later date.
Hi Rebekah,

A couple of weeks ago I thought of you when a celebrity named Simon
Cowell appeared on "The Tonight Show" and spoke about wanting a rat
as a pet, and how rats had really been maligned.  The host of the
show, Jay Leno, presented Simon with a white rat and Simon started
petting and loving it.  I wondered if you'd ever heard of him and if
you had tried to contact him to request that he be a spokesperson for
your organization.  I regret that I have no idea how to contact him.

Best,
Lynn Manheim
LettersForAnimals.com

.....................
Here's some info I found online.  I hope this comes through.

   SIMON COWELL

Simon Cowell's music career is now infamous having, over the past 20
years, helped to shape the modern pop music industry. In the last 10
years, Simon, a BMG Records executive, has been making and breaking
records. Cowell has achieved sales of over 25 million albums, over 70
top -30 records and 17 No. 1 singles.

Simon became a celebrity in his own right for reducing a string of
teenage wannabes to tears while serving as a judge on the UK version
of the show, "Pop Idol."

.......................
Just found a synopsis of his appearance on the Tonight Show!

COWELL PICKS UP A RAT AND A CAT ON TV SHOW



A visit to American chat show THE TONIGHT SHOW paid dividends for
animal lover SIMON COWELL on Monday night (17JAN05) - he walked away
with a new rat and a pet cat.

The AMERICAN IDOL judge confessed to host JAY LENO he was fond of
rodents and wanted one as a pet, prompting the comedian to present
him with a white rat.

Cowell said, "Rats are like mice with bad PR. They're big mice, and
they're actually very friendly and you can walk around with rat on
your shoulder... They're just misunderstood animals."

Cowell loved his new pet, adding, "Let's call him PAULA," in
reference to fellow American Idol judge PAULA ABDUL.

And the sharp-tongued music boss is also planning to open up his home
to a ginger cat after Leno showed him an adoption advert in US
newspaper THE OREGONIAN.

The cat, named Simon Cowell, has been put up for adoption by its
owner because it keeps swatting anyone or anything that comes near
him.

19/01/2005 09:18

Hello, I'm Rebekah.
We are pleased to have re-housed all our rats - 4 females and 7
males - to loving new homes..... As a consequence we currently have
room to take up to 15 unwanted domestic rats for.
We can only help re-house domestic rats as we have room avalible -
(cage donations help us accomedate more) also pending their length of
stay with us.(Some stay forever).
We do not breed, nor supply pet shops. If we can't re-house any rat
or rats, then they live with us for ever. This is a non-kill shelter.
A vet is within 5 minutes walk from our home and is used if ever
needed.
No rat will be euthanised unless they are suffering and it is the
last and only humane option - this is decided by a trained
veterinarian.
Again, this is a non-kill shelter - as a hobbie (I've owned rats for
16 years)- and all rats are welcome. ph: 03 9729 8828
I do not drive, so I cannot pick the animals up - the person/people
responsible for them must drop them off.
We can only take DOMESTIC rats -
Please take wildlife to appropriate sanctuary or your local vet.

Hi, we don't have any rats and have stopped rescuing animals for the time
being at least.  If you still want to rescue rats get in touch with your
local pound and see if they ever get them brought in.  Apart from that I can
only suggest you look out for advertisements in the paper etc by people who
no longer want their pet rats.  Sorry I can't be of more help.
Cheers, Glenda

Message: 1
    Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 04:28:04 -0000
    From: "sue" <peacelovinmungbean@...>
Subject: Re: Glenda's Rabbit and Rodent Rescue


WHERE ARE YOU? WE ARE LOOKING TO BUY/RESCUE 3 MALE RATS, PREFERABLY
YOUNG. HAVE MALES AND JUST LOVE THEM TO BITS. PLEASE EMAIL ON
3dingoes@...



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 10/02/2005

A lot of features inside this club will require membership, which
means you need a Yahoo ID/ Email Account.
This is to help keep the club clean and weed-out junk mail.

Thanks,
Rebekah

http://www.emailcash.com.au/join.asp?refer=H44424&tour=open

Visit EmailCash

WHERE ARE YOU? WE ARE LOOKING TO BUY/RESCUE 3 MALE RATS, PREFERABLY
YOUNG. HAVE MALES AND JUST LOVE THEM TO BITS. PLEASE EMAIL ON
3dingoes@...



--- In AMRIS_rodents_and_rabbits@..., "Glenda"
<philbert@o...> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> We're in desperate need of good homes as we are currently getting
> phone calls daily from shelters, pounds etc wanting to give us
their
> rodents and rabbits who are on death row.  At the moment I am
unable
> to take any more animals on until we start to rehome at least a
few.
>
> If you can help or know anyone who may be able to help in some way
> (even being a foster carer is a huge help!) please get in contact
> with me.  Pass the links on to everyone you know.
>
> www.geocities.com/animal_friend2002/glendasrescue
>
> www.geocities.com/animal_friend2002/glendasrescue2
>
> Cheers,
> Glenda