Lee Laver wrote:
>
> Hi Charles,
>
>
>
> I have used one of the machines you are describing. I believe that the
> flask size you mentioned is about the limit of the machine but you can
> get different diameter flasks. The really important thing about using
> this machine is to get the balance spot on for each separate cast.
> Preload the metal into the crucible with the flask in place, swing the
> arm out straight and slide the crucible out as far as it will go. Then
> release the locking nut on the pivot which allows the entire thing to
> act as a set of balance scales and add/move weights until it is really
> well balanced. I used to do this with the cold flask before I did the
> burn out but it can be done with the flask hot.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Lee/Leofric
>
Good advice. I have two of the things.
The first one I bought locally I later found to have a
bent axle, so I bought a second one off of eBay.
At some point I will straighten the bent axle.
When I was in Industrial Arts Ed I managed to bend
the quill on a large drill press and we put it between
centers on a lathe and put a dial gauge on it, marking
it at the high and low spots as we rotated it. Then we
would put it into a padded vise, hit it with a lead
hammer and retest it on the lathe. Eventually we got it
very near the original straightness. I was drilling a 5/16"
hole in an anvil on a 2 hp drill press. It jerked the anvil
out of my hand and the horn smacked the drill press's
main shaft in the back. The drill bit never broke, the
quill bent. The anvil had a steel welded on top plate
and a cast iron body. The problem occurred because
the iron chips kept dropping back into the hole and
jammed the bit.
Kerr makes a longer arm for larger flasks one can purchase.
I think, but could be wrong, that the maximum size may be
4" x 6" with it. In any event I wanted something I could cast
spoons in. My longest flasks for vacuum casting are 8".
A friend casts his spoons in french sand in a wooden
homemade flask, that has a hole in the sides of the cope and
drag he has cut into a funnel shape and lined with two half
steel hammered funnels to pour the metal through.
He also casts brass spurs flat in one and then bends them
round to fit the heel. Does incredible castings. Cuts the
pouring hole in the sand with a curved piece of soda can.
Also cuts with it down to the separation line for the second
half of the wood frame [in order to remove the model later].
As to flasks, I have discovered a wide variety at a savings at
auto stores where they are used for muffler system/tailpipe
extension parts. About half the price and more easily obtained
in a wide variety of sizes. The ones available locally are
welded stainless steel tubing.
I found my stainless steel tubing at a local junkyard and cut it
with an abrasive saw into a variety of lengths from 1 1/2 to 4"
diameter. But honestly I wish I had found the tailpipe rack as
it would have saved a lot of trouble squaring and deburring the
cut pipes. Abrasive saws do not always cut squarely.
We have an auto supply company here in the States called Pep Boys.
Pep Boys is much cheaper than the competition and carries often
superior products.
Magnus
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* Metallum_Lochac@...
> [mailto:Metallum_Lochac@...] *On Behalf Of *Charles
> Anderson
> *Sent:* Monday, 14 May 2007 11:16 AM
> *To:* EKMetalsmiths@yahoogroups.com; Metallum_Lochac@...
> *Subject:* [Metallum_Lochac] Kerr Casting Machine
>
>
>
> Help.
>
> I have managed to pick up a really good old machine.
>
> It has all the bits, excluding a crucible, the spring is very strong,
> has all the weights.
>
> I'm going to weigh it down in a garbage can full of cement/concrete.
>
> It looks like it can only take a 2 3/4" long flask, can this be
> modified? Do I have to buy another arm?
>
> This is slightly new territory for me considering I normally use a sling
> caster (yes I am insane).
>
> Regards Charles from Oz
>
>
Didn't like the brooches, they didn't grab me, but I found the broken
back sax unusual, and will make one today ;-) Regards Charles
Tyghra na Tintagel wrote:
>Apparently extant ones to purchase. Haven't looked at this site
>closely. Forwarded from another list.
>
>http://www.time-line.co.uk/erol.html#4521X0
>
>~ Tyg
>
>
It gets a
bit ugly when the thing is out
of balance, it can end up with hot stuff flying about the room if it’s
too far out.
Lee/Leofric
Hi Lee,
That could have explained why the bronze when everywhere with my
friends machine. He doesn't know about balancing either, otherwise he
would have told me, but it wasn't an issue as he was only able to melt
small quantities of bronze... until he came to my place, and we were
picking up bronze after that spin too ;-)
It would have been funny none the less ;-)
I couldn't imagine it to be as dramatic as when the cradle slips when
sling casting, I was picking up bronze in a long line that diagonally
bisected my back yard.
Pictures ... words .... etc:
http://www.progresstool.com/pd_kerrlab_6.cfm#
or
http://www.pemed.com/dental/dental.htm
(search for kerr)
Rodrigo
On Tue, 2007-05-15 at 19:34, Lee Laver wrote:
> Phew!
>
>
>
> Glad I told ya about that one.
>
> It gets a bit ugly when the thing is out of balance, it can end up
> with hot stuff flying about the room if it’s too far out.
>
>
>
> Lee/Leofric
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> From: Metallum_Lochac@...
> [mailto:Metallum_Lochac@...] On Behalf Of Charles
> Anderson
> Sent: Tuesday, 15 May 2007 8:30 AM
> To: Metallum_Lochac@...
> Subject: Re: [Metallum_Lochac] Kerr Casting Machine
>
>
>
>
> Will ya' look at that... thanks for that.
>
> I was wondering what people were referring to when they said balance
> the machine.
>
> Good old ham fisted Charles just tightened the nut and couldn't
> imagine it acting as a scale.
>
>
> Regards Charles from Oz (smacking himself on the forehead)
>
>
> Lee Laver wrote:
>
> > Hi Charles,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have used one of the machines you are describing. I believe that
> > the flask size you mentioned is about the limit of the machine but
> > you can get different diameter flasks. The really important thing
> > about using this machine is to get the balance spot on for each
> > separate cast. Preload the metal into the crucible with the flask in
> > place, swing the arm out straight and slide the crucible out as far
> > as it will go. Then release the locking nut on the pivot which
> > allows the entire thing to act as a set of balance scales and
> > add/move weights until it is really well balanced. I used to do this
> > with the cold flask before I did the burn out but it can be done
> > with the flask hot.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> >
> >
> > Lee/Leofric
> >
> >
>
>
It gets a bit ugly when the thing is out
of balance, it can end up with hot stuff flying about the room if it’s
too far out.
Lee/Leofric
From:Metallum_Lochac@... [mailto:Metallum_Lochac@...] On Behalf Of Charles Anderson Sent: Tuesday, 15 May 2007 8:30 AM To:Metallum_Lochac@... Subject: Re: [Metallum_Lochac]
Kerr Casting Machine
Will ya'
look at that... thanks for that.
I was wondering what people were referring to when they said balance the
machine.
Good old ham fisted Charles just tightened the nut and couldn't imagine it
acting as a scale.
Regards Charles from Oz (smacking himself on the forehead)
Lee Laver wrote:
Hi Charles,
I have used one of the machines you are describing. I believe that
the flask size you mentioned is about the limit of the machine but you can get
different diameter flasks. The really important thing about using this
machine is to get the balance spot on for each separate cast. Preload the metal
into the crucible with the flask in place, swing the arm out straight and slide
the crucible out as far as it will go. Then release the locking nut on the
pivot which allows the entire thing to act as a set of balance scales and
add/move weights until it is really well balanced. I used to do this with the
cold flask before I did the burn out but it can be done with the flask hot.
I was wondering what people were referring to when they said balance
the machine.
Good old ham fisted Charles just tightened the nut and couldn't imagine
it acting as a scale.
Regards Charles from Oz (smacking himself on the forehead)
Lee Laver wrote:
Hi Charles,
I have used
one of the machines you are
describing. I believe that the flask size you mentioned is about the
limit of
the machine but you can get different diameter flasks. The really
important thing about using this machine is to get the balance spot on
for each
separate cast. Preload the metal into the crucible with the flask in
place,
swing the arm out straight and slide the crucible out as far as it will
go. Then
release the locking nut on the pivot which allows the entire thing to
act as a
set of balance scales and add/move weights until it is really well
balanced. I
used to do this with the cold flask before I did the burn out but it
can be
done with the flask hot.
I have used one of the machines you are
describing. I believe that the flask size you mentioned is about the limit of
the machine but you can get different diameter flasks. The really
important thing about using this machine is to get the balance spot on for each
separate cast. Preload the metal into the crucible with the flask in place,
swing the arm out straight and slide the crucible out as far as it will go. Then
release the locking nut on the pivot which allows the entire thing to act as a
set of balance scales and add/move weights until it is really well balanced. I
used to do this with the cold flask before I did the burn out but it can be
done with the flask hot.
Cheers
Lee/Leofric
From:Metallum_Lochac@... [mailto:Metallum_Lochac@...] On Behalf Of Charles Anderson Sent: Monday, 14 May 2007 11:16 AM To: EKMetalsmiths@yahoogroups.com;
Metallum_Lochac@... Subject: [Metallum_Lochac] Kerr
Casting Machine
Help.
I have managed to pick up a really good old machine.
It has all the bits, excluding a crucible, the spring is very strong,
has all the weights.
I'm going to weigh it down in a garbage can full of cement/concrete.
It looks like it can only take a 2 3/4" long flask, can this be
modified? Do I have to buy another arm?
This is slightly new territory for me considering I normally use a sling
caster (yes I am insane).
Help.
I have managed to pick up a really good old machine.
It has all the bits, excluding a crucible, the spring is very strong,
has all the weights.
I'm going to weigh it down in a garbage can full of cement/concrete.
It looks like it can only take a 2 3/4" long flask, can this be
modified? Do I have to buy another arm?
This is slightly new territory for me considering I normally use a sling
caster (yes I am insane).
Regards Charles from Oz
Funny I just got a book on needle making (not needle point :-p), not
those really heavy bone needles, but iron and steel needles (although
the iron was turned into steel also).
After reading how it was done I can understand why parents threatened
their children with needle making apprenticeships :-(
Regards Charles
Tyghra na Tintagel wrote:
More interesting stuff...
>From Laurensa...via the EKMG list...
--------- Forwarded message ----------
Hi, All. Best of all regarding pins, they are very simple to make for
yourself, if you have a little metalworking skill.
A simple swage can be made from a door hinge. You need a steel punch
in the shape of half a globe the size of the pinhead, stamped into both
sides of the hingeplate (making sure they are exactly opposite one
another), and a chisel to cut a slot for the pin shaft.
Get hardened brass wire for the pin shaft, and soft wire of a smaller
gauge for the heads. Using a piece of the hard wire as a mandrel, wrap
the soft wire in a tight spiral like a coil spring, and cut pieces with
a nipper or heavy nail snips of about 3 wraps (your wraps may vary, it
is trial and error). Slightly deform the end of the hard wire pieces
that you cut to size for your pins so the coil won't slide off.
Slide a coil on the wire up to the slightly deformed end where it
will wedge itself, and place in the swage. Close the swage and strike it
with a hammer on a hard surface. Open the swage and check to see if the
head has become globular and swaged on the pin shaft. The pins then can
be filed sharp with a file or sandpaper, using a block of wood or bone
with a slot filed in it to hold the pin steady.
Or you could just melt the end of the wire
into a ball with a torch, much quicker.
Leofric
From:Metallum_Lochac@... [mailto:Metallum_Lochac@...] On Behalf Of Tyghra na Tintagel Sent: Thursday, 10 May 2007 10:48
PM To: Metallum_Lochac Subject: [Metallum_Lochac] Making
Pins
More
interesting stuff...
From Laurensa...via the EKMG list...
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
>
> >Hi, All. Best of all regarding pins, they are very simple to make for
> >yourself, if you have a little metalworking skill.
> >A simple swage can be made from a door hinge. You need a steel punch
> >in the shape of half a globe the size of the pinhead, stamped into
both
> >sides of the hingeplate (making sure they are exactly opposite one
> >another), and a chisel to cut a slot for the pin shaft.
> >Get hardened brass wire for the pin shaft, and soft wire of a smaller
> >gauge for the heads. Using a piece of the hard wire as a mandrel, wrap
> >the soft wire in a tight spiral like a coil spring, and cut pieces
with
> >a nipper or heavy nail snips of about 3 wraps (your wraps may vary, it
> >is trial and error). Slightly deform the end of the hard wire pieces
> >that you cut to size for your pins so the coil won't slide off.
> >Slide a coil on the wire up to the slightly deformed end where it
> >will wedge itself, and place in the swage. Close the swage and strike
it
> >with a hammer on a hard surface. Open the swage and check to see if
the
> >head has become globular and swaged on the pin shaft. The pins then
can
> >be filed sharp with a file or sandpaper, using a block of wood or bone
> >with a slot filed in it to hold the pin steady.
More interesting stuff...
From Laurensa...via the EKMG list...
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
>
> >Hi, All. Best of all regarding pins, they are very simple to make for
> >yourself, if you have a little metalworking skill.
> >A simple swage can be made from a door hinge. You need a steel punch
> >in the shape of half a globe the size of the pinhead, stamped into both
> >sides of the hingeplate (making sure they are exactly opposite one
> >another), and a chisel to cut a slot for the pin shaft.
> >Get hardened brass wire for the pin shaft, and soft wire of a smaller
> >gauge for the heads. Using a piece of the hard wire as a mandrel, wrap
> >the soft wire in a tight spiral like a coil spring, and cut pieces with
> >a nipper or heavy nail snips of about 3 wraps (your wraps may vary, it
> >is trial and error). Slightly deform the end of the hard wire pieces
> >that you cut to size for your pins so the coil won't slide off.
> >Slide a coil on the wire up to the slightly deformed end where it
> >will wedge itself, and place in the swage. Close the swage and strike it
> >with a hammer on a hard surface. Open the swage and check to see if the
> >head has become globular and swaged on the pin shaft. The pins then can
> >be filed sharp with a file or sandpaper, using a block of wood or bone
> >with a slot filed in it to hold the pin steady.
Forwarded as it looks like an interesting book. There are a few sample
pages to check out.
~ Tyg
> http://www.chasingmetal.com/
>
> --
> Phlip
>
> Heat it up
> Hit it hard
> Repent as necessary.
I made something similar and a little more heavy duty.
Basically a 6" pipe 1/4" wall thickness, over a metre in length, cut it
in half lengthwise, added a tru-iron, and some legs... it works okay, I
only fire it up when I want to heat treat swords and big things.
I think the simplest forge is a 1 inch pipe sealed at one end, holes
drilled along its length, with mounds of dirt either side, bung in your
charcoal, haven't tried coal and don't really need to, blow in some air
and there you go, also doubles as a heavy duty BBQ :-)
Regards Charles
P.S. I did enjoy Mr. Lively's DVD, most entertaining.
Tyghra na Tintagel wrote:
>Looks useful! Forwarded from the East Kingdom Metalsmiths Guild list.
>
>~ Tyg
>
>
>
>>Here's a very simple, and inexpensive, charcoal forge design that
>>should be good for bladesmiths (as well as the rest of us). Looks like
>>it would be very portable, and it's not very different from the ones
>>used in my period of study.
>>
>>
>> http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htm
>>
Looks useful! Forwarded from the East Kingdom Metalsmiths Guild list.
~ Tyg
> Here's a very simple, and inexpensive, charcoal forge design that
> should be good for bladesmiths (as well as the rest of us). Looks like
> it would be very portable, and it's not very different from the ones
> used in my period of study.
>
>
> http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htm
>
> --
> Saint Phlip
>
> Heat it up
> Hit it hard
> Repent as necessary.
>
> Priorities:
>
> It's the smith who makes the tools, not the tools which make the smith.
It would have brought a tear to your
eye to see the steel thrown out here a couple of weeks ago I rescued a
piece of H13 550 diameter by 50 mm thick I guess I will cut it up and make
forge tools one day.
Why do you require a separate block
for "edge packing" ? I tend to do all of the forging either on
the anvil or under the power hammer. sometimes it pays to turn the anvil
around.
BTW edge packing is somewhat unfashionable
as a term in the cutlery world. It was for some time used to describe something
that was metallurgically impossible. The process can be used to reduce
grain growth if the blade is to be kept hot for a long time but so can
thermal cycling.
Cheers
Sigurd
..........................................................................................
Nicholas Turner
Pivotal Engineering Ltd
PO Box 4049
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph: +64 3 379 5750
Fax: +64 3 366 3528
Charles Anderson <charlesanderson@...> Sent by: Metallum_Lochac@...
03/05/2007 14:38
Please respond to Metallum_Lochac
To:
Metallum_Lochac@...
cc:
Subject:
Re: [Metallum_Lochac] Re: Free railway
line anvils
I picked up a steel block for $60 the other day. I
use it for edge packing, but it could very easily be used as an Anglo-Saxon
anvil, it's the right size and dimensions, just happened across it :-)
Regards Charles
blaeney wrote:
Are they 1080 and are you coming to coronation ? I
would not require
any
shaping.
Nicholas Turner
Don't know and no. Although if you can find someone to give up their
baggage allowance I can pass it on to them :)
Surely Sigurd or Ianulfr can track some down over there?
That Sigurd is a mean SOB he has literally
got tons of railway iron but it is all wrought iron. I was actually interested
in the steel rather than the profile I know that we have purchased 1080
rails from Australia before and in can be hard to get 1080 here.
cheers
Sigurd
..........................................................................................
Nicholas Turner
Pivotal Engineering Ltd
PO Box 4049
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph: +64 3 379 5750
Fax: +64 3 366 3528
"blaeney" <Greg.Boston@...> Sent by: Metallum_Lochac@...
03/05/2007 14:34
Please respond to Metallum_Lochac
To:
Metallum_Lochac@...
cc:
Subject:
[Metallum_Lochac] Re: Free railway line
anvils
> Are they 1080 and are you coming to coronation ?
I would not require
any
> shaping.
> Nicholas Turner
Don't know and no. Although if you can find someone to give up their
baggage allowance I can pass it on to them :)
Surely Sigurd or Ianulfr can track some down over there?
I'd use nuts and bolts, or rivets, I can't stick weld for peanuts... I
can forge weld though ;-)
Regards Charles from Oz
kevin schunn wrote:
>hi.. ive been lurking and reading here for quite some time now, but this is
>my first msg. :)
>
>you only need to braze when youre attempting to weld non ferrous metals to
>non ferous metals, and non ferous metals to ferous. ie, you must braze
>copper, brass, bronze etc when joining them together, or, to ferrous metals
>like mild or stainless steel.
>
>since mesh is so thin, its a real pain in the arse to weld, just make sure
>that you focus your heat on the sheet steel, and drag the arc/flame towards
>the mesh slowly, making sure any filler material can be added VERY fast, or
>you will blow through. the weld happens very fast.
>
> kevin
>
>
>
hi.. ive been lurking and reading here for quite some time now, but this is
my first msg. :)
you only need to braze when youre attempting to weld non ferrous metals to
non ferous metals, and non ferous metals to ferous. ie, you must braze
copper, brass, bronze etc when joining them together, or, to ferrous metals
like mild or stainless steel.
since mesh is so thin, its a real pain in the arse to weld, just make sure
that you focus your heat on the sheet steel, and drag the arc/flame towards
the mesh slowly, making sure any filler material can be added VERY fast, or
you will blow through. the weld happens very fast.
kevin
>From: "Mark Jamieson" <madmarcus@...>
>Reply-To: Metallum_Lochac@...
>To: <Metallum_Lochac@...>
>Subject: Re: [Metallum_Lochac] Anvils
>Date: Thu, 3 May 2007 21:54:39 +1000
>
>Ah, the memories of my first railway anvil. Gosh it was noisy to hit, but
>more versatile than the engine flywheel.
>Are you shaping the horn entirely by grinding or doing the rough cut with
>oxy-acetylene? I just love cutting 2 inch steel with oxy-acetylene, the
>roar of the flame, and molten slag blasting in all directions. Better than
>the feeling of power when using a chainsaw I think.
>
>BTW is it possible to weld stainless arrow mesh to a visor, or does it have
>to be brazed?
>
>
>I weld SS mesh to my visors, I'd advise that you play with a bit of scrap
>first to gat the settings right as it a slow interesting weld. Depending on
>the gauge of wire, I tend to weld on the visor first and welt to the mesh,
>if that make sense to you?
>
>all the best Marcus
>
_________________________________________________________________
Advertisement: Senior Management roles paying $80k+ Search now at
www.seek.com.au
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eexecutive%2Eseek%2Ecom\
%2Eau%2F%3Ftracking%3Dsk%3Ahet%3Ase%3Anine%3A0%3Ahot%3Atext&_t=763838044&_r=seek\
_may07_snrmanagement&_m=EXT
Ah, the memories of my first railway anvil. Gosh it was noisy to hit, but more versatile than the engine flywheel.
Are you shaping the horn entirely by grinding or doing the rough cut with oxy-acetylene? I just love cutting 2 inch steel with oxy-acetylene, the roar of the flame, and molten slag blasting in all directions. Better than the feeling of power when using a chainsaw I think.
BTW is it possible to weld stainless arrow mesh to a visor, or does it have to be brazed?
I weld SS mesh to my visors, I'd advise that you play with a bit of scrap first to gat the settings right as it a slow interesting weld. Depending on the gauge of wire, I tend to weld on the visor first and welt to the mesh, if that make sense to you?
Ah, the memories of my first railway anvil. Gosh it was noisy to hit, but more versatile than the engine flywheel.
Are you shaping the horn entirely by grinding or doing the rough cut with oxy-acetylene? I just love cutting 2 inch steel with oxy-acetylene, the roar of the flame, and molten slag blasting in all directions. Better than the feeling of power when using a chainsaw I think.
BTW is it possible to weld stainless arrow mesh to a visor, or does it have to be brazed?
Hi all, For the armourers out there, I've got 10 sections of railway line 30cm long to give away. They're not shaped at all, if I get time I'll have a go and see how much effort and consumeables it takes to shape a horn, but don't hold your breath on that one. So if you want one, drop me a line via this email account. I'm in Wollongong/Sydney and can bring one or two at a time to various events/gatherings to pass on.
I picked up a steel block for $60 the other day. I use it for edge
packing, but it could very easily be used as an Anglo-Saxon anvil, it's
the right size and dimensions, just happened across it :-)
Regards Charles
blaeney wrote:
Are they 1080 and are you coming to coronation ? I would not require
any
shaping.
Nicholas Turner
Don't know and no. Although if you can find someone to give up their baggage allowance I can pass it on to them :)
Surely Sigurd or Ianulfr can track some down over there?
Blayney
> Are they 1080 and are you coming to coronation ? I would not require
any
> shaping.
> Nicholas Turner
Don't know and no. Although if you can find someone to give up their
baggage allowance I can pass it on to them :)
Surely Sigurd or Ianulfr can track some down over there?
Blayney
Are they 1080 and are you coming to
coronation ? I would not require any shaping.
..........................................................................................
Nicholas Turner
Pivotal Engineering Ltd
PO Box 4049
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph: +64 3 379 5750
Fax: +64 3 366 3528
"blaeney" <Greg.Boston@...> Sent by: Metallum_Lochac@...
02/05/2007 12:52
Please respond to Metallum_Lochac
To:
Metallum_Lochac@...
cc:
Subject:
[Metallum_Lochac] Free railway line
anvils
Hi all,
For the armourers out there, I've got 10 sections of railway line 30cm
long to give away. They're not shaped at all, if I get time I'll have a
go and see how much effort and consumeables it takes to shape a horn,
but don't hold your breath on that one.
So if you want one, drop me a line via this email account.
I'm in Wollongong/Sydney and can bring one or two at a time to various
events/gatherings to pass on.
Hi all,
For the armourers out there, I've got 10 sections of railway line 30cm
long to give away. They're not shaped at all, if I get time I'll have a
go and see how much effort and consumeables it takes to shape a horn,
but don't hold your breath on that one.
So if you want one, drop me a line via this email account.
I'm in Wollongong/Sydney and can bring one or two at a time to various
events/gatherings to pass on.
cheers,
Blayney
In case you wish to purchase or make...
> For those with an interest (like me :)
>
> One of the shops I get my beads from online has just released a section
> on replica antique beads. Some of these are literally straight out of my
> Anglo-Saxon burial beads book so I thought those who are interested in
> that period might like a look-see.
>
> www.spacetrader.com.au/index.php/cPath/1123
>
> The first four in the list a definitely styles out of the book and various
> others are as well. There are also a few venetian style (close to the
> period but not quite, would be a good basic facsimile) near the end.
As per my forewarding agreement with Stefan.
Someone want to put it on Merryrose?
Magnus
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [SCA-AS] Stefan's Florilegium files for March
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2007 23:54:01 -0600
From: Stefan li Rous <StefanliRous@...>
Reply-To: Arts and Sciences in the SCA
<artssciences@...>
CC: (.Home) (.Home) <StefanliRous@...>
Greetings to the Gentle Folk scattered across the Known World,
Here is a copy of my Florilegium article for March, detailing what is
new in the Florilegium this month.
I am always looking for new and interesting material to showcase in
the Florilegium. This could anything having to do with the Middle
Ages or the recreation of those times, from a short article you wrote
for a local newsletter to a Master's Thesis. Yes, there is at least
one in the Florilegium. Class handouts or Arts & Sciences
documentation can also work well, if they can stand alone without the
class or the object that they are supporting. Since I take updates
at any time, either of these could be replaced with a more formal
article later. In the meantime, others will find them useful and you
may get suggestions and additional documentation to improve your work.
If any of you are going to be at Gulf Wars next week, please consider
dropping by and visiting. I will be camping with the Barony of Bryn
Gwlad which will be camping across the road from the Ansteorra gate.
I will also be teaching my class about the Florilegium twice and my
hands-on pewter casting class. The first will be in the class area
and the second in the Artisan's Row area.
Stefan
------
A Blending of the Past and Present
Over the past sixteen years in an ongoing effort, I have been
collecting bits of useful information from various newsgroups, mail
lists and articles submitted to me by their authors. In order to make
this information available to others, I have placed this information
in a series of files I call Stefan's Florilegium.
The Florilegium is on the web at: http://www.florilegium.org
I am always interested in new articles. If you have written an
article that would be of interest to others in the SCA, please send
it to me for possible inclusion in the Florilegium. Contact me for
more details.
I am also interested in volunteers who might be interested in helping
me maintain the Florilegium. Everything from collecting materials,
editing and web work is needed. Again, please contact me for more
details.
For those who would like to help support the Florilegium project in
another way, I have added a PayPal donation button on the top page of
the site. Any donations, while not tax deductible, do help pay the
overhead costs of keeping the site running.
THLord Stefan li Rous Ansteorra stefan at florilegium.org
Here are the new files for this month:
In the CLOTHING section:
cl-12C-Woman-art "The Wardrobe of a 12th Century Frankish
Noblewoman" by Mistress Roheisa Le Sarjent.
In the ENTERTAINMENT section:
Kubb-art “Kubb” by THL Dagonell Collingwood of
Emerald Lake.
In the FOOD-SWEETS-DECORATED section:
candied-fruit-msg Period candied fruit. Recipes.
In the FOOD-VEGETABLES section:
Cucumbers-Hst-art "Medieval and Ancient History of the
Cucumber" by Ian of Oertha.
In the HERALDRY section:
Voice-Herldry-art "How to be a Voice Herald in 42 easy steps!"
by Lady Eleanor Cleavely.
In the TEXTILE-ARTS section:
sprang-chrono-art A chronology of the art of sprang weaving
by Medb ingen Dungaile.
Here are some of the updated files.
brd-mk-sour-msg Breadmaking - Period sourdough bread recipes.
candy-msg Period candy. Recipes. Candied fruit peels.
cookbooks-SCA-msg Cookbooks written by people in the SCA.
fd-Italy-msg Period Italian food. Cookbooks.
p-spice-trade-msg The period spice trade. Routes, methods.
p-marriage-msg Period marriage.
p-pigs-msg Medieval pigs. Differences from modern pigs.
rec-in-verse-msg Period recipes written in a verse format.
roast-pork-msg Cooking pork roasts. Medieval recipes.
---
Copyright 2007, Mark S. Harris.
Permission to reprint in SCA-related publications is hereby granted
if the contents are left unchanged and the author is notified of the
publication. Notification may be by email and reformatting is allowed.
<end>
--------
THLord Stefan li Rous Barony of Bryn Gwlad Kingdom of Ansteorra
Mark S. Harris Austin, Texas
StefanliRous@...
**** See Stefan's Florilegium files at: http://www.florilegium.org ****
_______________________________________________
Artssciences mailing list
Artssciences@...http://lists.gallowglass.org/mailman/listinfo/artssciences
Offline 
Send Email
