gidday  i have an xp i am restoring and i want a demister for it does
anybody know of an original one or something for fits without too
much drama
thanks

I believe the fairlane of the same era is a strait swap
----- Original Message -----
From: "mywagon65" <mywagon65@...>
To: <earlyfalcons@...>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 8:48 AM
Subject: [Early Falcons] demisters in xp


>
>
> gidday  i have an xp i am restoring and i want a demister for it does
> anybody know of an original one or something for fits without too
> much drama
> thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.298 / Virus Database: 265.6.6 - Release Date: 28/12/2004
>
>


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Hi in the process of putting 4.1xflow & 4spd, in 65 falcon wagon.has
been lowered. donor xe falcon.
Has anyone fitted powersteer/column from donor to xp.
Any suggestions how to change 4 stud rear to five to match front
discs from donor.
  cheers xpwagonman

anyone got one?
anyone got one to sell?
i know somebody offered one up here a few months ago but i wasnt
quite ready for it......is it still around?
anybody know any wreckers who might have one?
even if its not complete?

ideas?

thanks
craig

i have an xm wagon with its original 170 in it hooked up to a celica
5 speed on the floor, the tree now defunct.
what i want to know is, as i am planning a gradual changeover to
v8.... after ive done all my suspension, brakes and steering..... is
what ratio of nine inch diff should i be looking at? what do the
ratios mean? do i even need a nine inch diff? i want to do the diff
now so i can change the stud
pattern to 5 stud and get my wheels that i want. whats a good disc
brake with diff set up for me?
and will my celica 5 speed stand up to the forces dished out by a
302w? i dont really plan on dragging or dropping burn outs all over
the place. just want to cruise....

and lastly... is dellow (think thats the spelling) the right place to
look for the conversion bits n pieces.....?

any other ideas?

appreciate everyones help here..... its nice to have such a forum
with dedicated ford nuts on hand.

craig

Craig, not sure if you're in NSW, but here's some basics on V8 swaps
for this State:

First up - conversions of an increase in capacity of 10% or less, or
increase in power of 10% or less, over the Largest engine offered by
the factory for that model (a 200 in your case), are referred to
as "owner certified", and need no documentation.  With a wink and a
nod, the 221 swap falls into this category.

Beyond that, there exists a formula for calculating the maximum
increase in power or capacity as a percentage of the original
unoptioned sedan weight.  Again note that over about 291in³ requires
a collapsible steering column.

Also be aware that a lot of "spills" with repowered early Falcons are
in part due to the extremely slow steering.  A rider to all the RTA
requirements for conversions is that "...the vehicle should be
suitable for subsequent resale to a person of average driving
ability..."

You may need to add a windscreen demister, washer bottle, three-point
seatbelts in the front and a fan shroud, unless you already have
these items.  A tailshaft catcher is plain common sense any time.
Brakes must be adequate, but not necessarily discs.  Generally,
brakes equivalent to the donor's brakes are considered OK.

Currie Enterprises make a lovely 9" unit that will bolt right in, but
it costs about $2400 without the centre section.  D&R Differentials
in Sydney, who have done a variety of work for me, say that their 9"
conversion costs a shade over $3K drive in/drive out.  A BTR (Borg-
Warner) conversion costs about $1900.  Proper setting of the pinion
preload, mesh and lash are essential to gear life but if observed
make an extra strong BTR diff possible.

Turning to the Ford install, the bodies on these cars are fairly weak
and light and extra bracing is good.  As a minimum, a lower
crossmember that ties the engine mounts in, plus a shock tower brace
are good practice.  Make sure your XM has the torque boxes fitted and
in sound condition.

If you can lighten the motor with a set of alloy heads and intake,
it'll handle much better.  Depends on the budget, though.

Finally be aware that a modified vehicle needs both an engineer's
certificate or conformity (a witnessed copy of which should be
carried in the car at all times), and a broker to find an insurance
policy for it.  Illegal modifications render the driver/owner
ultimately liable for any claims arising from accidents or other
traffic matters.

This is not something to take lightly; price your insurance before
you start any swap, and work with an engineer to ensure the
installation is compliant.

If this all sounds like hard work, remember the car can be fun in
almost any form.  Getting there is the good bit - right?

Cheers, Adam.

Hi Craig,

I have an electric tailgate mechanism and rear switch available on
ebay at the moment - here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=32552&item=4516371541&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Cheers,

Paul

--- In earlyfalcons@..., "lizardtelevision"
<lizardtelevision@y...> wrote:
>
> anyone got one?
> anyone got one to sell?
> i know somebody offered one up here a few months ago but i wasnt
> quite ready for it......is it still around?
> anybody know any wreckers who might have one?
> even if its not complete?
>
> ideas?
>
> thanks
> craig

yeah i saw that one , ebayers way to fast for me and
my computer skills.....next? i tried.
if the buyer doesnt show then please give me a call on
0408241618....
there's gotta be a few more out there somewhere.....

---------------------------------

Hi Craig,

I have an electric tailgate mechanism and rear switch
available on
ebay at the moment - here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=32552&item=4516371541&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Cheers,

Paul

--- In earlyfalcons@...,
"lizardtelevision"
<lizardtelevision@y...> wrote:
>
> anyone got one?
> anyone got one to sell?
> i know somebody offered one up here a few months ago
but i wasnt
> quite ready for it......is it still around?
> anybody know any wreckers who might have one?
> even if its not complete?
>
> ideas?
>
> thanks
> craig





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where do you live NSW or VIC i know two people in our NSW club that have
them
i could ask them if they want to sell them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "craig donaldson" <lizardtelevision@...>
To: <earlyfalcons@...>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 6:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Early Falcons] Re: electric tailgates


>
> yeah i saw that one , ebayers way to fast for me and
> my computer skills.....next? i tried.
> if the buyer doesnt show then please give me a call on
> 0408241618....
> there's gotta be a few more out there somewhere.....
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> Hi Craig,
>
> I have an electric tailgate mechanism and rear switch
> available on
> ebay at the moment - here's the link:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&category=32552&item=4516371541&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
>
> Cheers,
>
> Paul
>
> --- In earlyfalcons@...,
> "lizardtelevision"
> <lizardtelevision@y...> wrote:
> >
> > anyone got one?
> > anyone got one to sell?
> > i know somebody offered one up here a few months ago
> but i wasnt
> > quite ready for it......is it still around?
> > anybody know any wreckers who might have one?
> > even if its not complete?
> >
> > ideas?
> >
> > thanks
> > craig
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>    To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/earlyfalcons/
>
>    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> earlyfalcons-unsubscribe@...
>
>    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Hi Folks,

Does anyone have pictures of their mounting points used for the front
retractable seat belts?

Do you use the same floor and A pillar mounting points for the lap sash?

I purchased my XL with the front seat belts already installed, but just need to
know they are right.

Cheers,
Mike J
XL250



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi I have an xk wagon with seat belts mounted front and rear just wondered do
they have to be there and if carrying a baby do you need to have an anchor
point.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

my harmonic balancer cracked and fell off the other day. im running a
pre cross-flow 250, and i've purchased a replacement, but im not too
sure how to fit it. do they just push on? cause there is no bolts on
the front to hold it on, and i dont really want it to happen again.
thanks
holly

Hello Holly the balancer are normally friction fit which means that it should
press on with a pulley tool. Some also ahd a bolt to hold them on so inspect the
nose of the crank shaft for a thread hole. Also check the the key is still on
the crank shaft it looks like a half moon piece of steel that fits in a slot.
cheers Jonesy and Jerry

Holly <holska83@...> wrote:

my harmonic balancer cracked and fell off the other day. im running a
pre cross-flow 250, and i've purchased a replacement, but im not too
sure how to fit it. do they just push on? cause there is no bolts on
the front to hold it on, and i dont really want it to happen again.
thanks
holly






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Holly, pre crossflow 250's have an interference fit harmonic balancer and
key/keyway to index the timing marks correctly and stop slipping under load,
none of them had a bolt to hold the balancer on, i've had them come off under
extreme high rev usage, it aint pretty when it happens, You can get the
retaining bolt from the earlier 144,170,200,221 motors and use it, its good
insurance. To fit the balancer,  you just need to make sure the front of the
crank is clean, a light smear of oil doesn't hurt to help it , push it on to get
it started(making sure you align the key to keyway) a gentle tap in the centre
(not the outer rim)with a soft faced hammer or similar, will get it on, drive it
in until it stops, then fit the bolt mentioned previously to keep it on.You may
find once the bolt has started well into the threads you can use it to pull the
balancer on instead of hitting it. honest john
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: andrew jones
   To: earlyfalcons@...
   Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 8:20 AM
   Subject: Re: [Early Falcons] harmonic balancer


   Hello Holly the balancer are normally friction fit which means that it should
press on with a pulley tool. Some also ahd a bolt to hold them on so inspect the
nose of the crank shaft for a thread hole. Also check the the key is still on
the crank shaft it looks like a half moon piece of steel that fits in a slot.
   cheers Jonesy and Jerry

   Holly <holska83@...> wrote:

   my harmonic balancer cracked and fell off the other day. im running a
   pre cross-flow 250, and i've purchased a replacement, but im not too
   sure how to fit it. do they just push on? cause there is no bolts on
   the front to hold it on, and i dont really want it to happen again.
   thanks
   holly






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   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the site, so please bear with me if this has been covered
before (I have tried to read all relevant threads prior to sending
this).

I have completed a rebuild of my wife's XP wagon, with the exception
of paint and the steering column - it is running a 302, C4, 8 3/4
mustang diff with 3.00 gears, and standard wheels with 1960's F100
caps. It was built to look like a stocker, with only the twin pipes
out the back giving it away.

I am at the stage of the steering conversion, and need some advice. I
want to retain the column shift for the auto, and would love to know
the most common, or accepted practice. I wrecked an XT Fairmont wagon
for the running gear, but failed to pull out the column. Would this
have been a bolt in swap? I have read several threads concerning XY
steering boxes - my preference is for simplicity, and also keeping
the costs down, so the RRS(?) swap is not an option.

Thanks,

Michael

Hi guys. Im the proud new owner of a 65 Futura sedan
and am looking
to find a good, trustworthy mechanic in the brisbane
area for the old
girl. If any-one can recommend someone it would be
most appreciated.

Im having a few probs with over-heating so a good
radiator guy would
be good too! I spent the weekend changing thermostats,
flushing,
checking the radiator out etc. I dont really have the
time at the
moment so if anyone could suggest a good radiator
specialist that
would be great too.

Thanks guys,

Mat




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Bradley, I know that you wanted a ute or sedan but i have an xp coupe
that is rough but restorable for $1200, sold it to a guy in WA but he
can't get here to collect it so if you are interested he wants me to
sell it for him. I am just over the SA VIC border from you.
Girard.    --- In earlyfalcons@..., "Bradley Smith"
<bsmith16@b...> wrote:
> Gday Guys,
>
>
>
> I am looking for a starting point to a car I am going to probably
spend a
> great deal of time and money on. I don't want to spend more than
$1000 for
> the shell, and don't mind if it has a motor and gear box or not,
but would
> prefer it if it did. I am happy with any of the XL-XP models, but
really
> would like a Ute or Sedan.
>
>
>
> Anyone got / know someone who has such a thing lying around that
they don't
> want to deal with anymore? I live in Melbourne, but will consider
traveling
> over Xmas/Jan to pick it up.
>
>
>
>
>
> Cheers, Bradley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mate, I don't know if the xm and xp have the same wheel track but an
easy conversion for early falcons is a centura diff which is approx
only 1/2 inch wider than original and also a perfect match for a ford
stud patern, also if u r looking for a set of wheels i have a set off
my xp coupe, Weld pro stars 6", 7" & 3.5" with good tyres.
P.S. a centura diff drum to drum should only cost about $250.00, with
any changes you can do your self.
G.
--- In earlyfalcons@..., "lizardtelevision"
<lizardtelevision@y...> wrote:
>
> i have an xm wagon with its original 170 in it hooked up to a
celica
> 5 speed on the floor, the tree now defunct.
> what i want to know is, as i am planning a gradual changeover to
> v8.... after ive done all my suspension, brakes and steering.....
is
> what ratio of nine inch diff should i be looking at? what do the
> ratios mean? do i even need a nine inch diff? i want to do the diff
> now so i can change the stud
> pattern to 5 stud and get my wheels that i want. whats a good disc
> brake with diff set up for me?
> and will my celica 5 speed stand up to the forces dished out by a
> 302w? i dont really plan on dragging or dropping burn outs all over
> the place. just want to cruise....
>
> and lastly... is dellow (think thats the spelling) the right place
to
> look for the conversion bits n pieces.....?
>
> any other ideas?
>
> appreciate everyones help here..... its nice to have such a forum
> with dedicated ford nuts on hand.
>
> craig

My original xm sedan 1946 delux 170 pursuit is going in the trading post
late feb
$1700 ono

Drives well and complete and orig.


At 10:46 AM 01/27/2005 +0000, you wrote:


>Bradley, I know that you wanted a ute or sedan but i have an xp coupe
>that is rough but restorable for $1200, sold it to a guy in WA but he
>can't get here to collect it so if you are interested he wants me to
>sell it for him. I am just over the SA VIC border from you.
>Girard.    --- In earlyfalcons@..., "Bradley Smith"
><bsmith16@b...> wrote:
> > Gday Guys,
> >
> >
> >
> > I am looking for a starting point to a car I am going to probably
>spend a
> > great deal of time and money on. I don't want to spend more than
>$1000 for
> > the shell, and don't mind if it has a motor and gear box or not,
>but would
> > prefer it if it did. I am happy with any of the XL-XP models, but
>really
> > would like a Ute or Sedan.
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone got / know someone who has such a thing lying around that
>they don't
> > want to deal with anymore? I live in Melbourne, but will consider
>traveling
> > over Xmas/Jan to pick it up.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers, Bradley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Hi everyone,

Has anyone tried restoring and re-anodising their tail light buckets,
and how successfull was it?
Any recommendations for an anodising business to use to get this done
(Melbourne preferrably) ?

Thanks,

Paul

I'm doing some at the moment.

Based on my experience with metal finishers, you only get good
results by either total DIY, or paying a major price.  The
restoration process is more finiscky than anodising new BOVs, etc so
the modern dar crowd's practitioners aren't always the ones you
want.

Metal finishers are also often a bit of a mongrel breed, and you are
subject to their moods as they see fit.  Can make it hard to enjoy
productive discussions.

Websites like finishingdotcom will tell you how to strip anodising
easily enough (the first step), but it's the beating and filing and
sanding afterwards that really make the difference.  Look for a good
set of buckets to begin with (paint can be paint-stripped off, so
don't be deterred from painted ones).

You shouldn't do any "working" of the metal with the anodising
place.  It's apparently easy to create small fissures in the surface
that will either be increased by the anodising process, or will
propagate deterioration of the finished surface.

I chose to polish the "ribs" inside the bucket and will pick out the
flats between with GM black when it's done.  Most buckets are
scratched somewhat in this area, and although it is not polished as
OEM, it's hard to imagine reanodising with the scratches remaining -
hence the polishing.

In a nutshell - strip them and polish yourself, then send 'em off for
reanodising.  Beware; the black residue will stain your paws for a
week.

Cheers, Adam.

Howdy Boys & Girls,

I have a 65 XP Coupe that has a set of Older Style mags, (Honecomb
effect is about the best way I can describe them).   They're four
studders not five, problem is, I have four, but I need a fifth as a
spare.   Someone said they could be from a Cortina?

I can supply photo's, anyone got any ideas??

Cheers

GrandPA DJ The Rock Doc

Hi send a pic through Ill have a look I manage a tyre store so know alot of
people into wheels and stuff. andrew@...

Alec Mead <rockdoc@...> wrote:
Howdy Boys & Girls,

I have a 65 XP Coupe that has a set of Older Style mags, (Honecomb
effect is about the best way I can describe them).   They're four
studders not five, problem is, I have four, but I need a fifth as a
spare.   Someone said they could be from a Cortina?

I can supply photo's, anyone got any ideas??

Cheers

GrandPA DJ The Rock Doc





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi All,

A few people have mounted Cross Flow 250's to XP's and similar, it is
just a case of taking the cross member from the donor car too. Or is
there more needed for the transplant (to bolt it in).

The same question is also applicable for a Windsor or Cleveland...

Thanks,
Dave

You can buy the crossmembers from Castlemaine Rod Shop for the 6's and 8's
if you need them. They are about $160 including the gearbox member if I
remember correctly.







   _____

From: xpfalcon_com [mailto:dave.colvin@...]
Sent: Saturday, 29 January 2005 10:51 AM
To: earlyfalcons@...
Subject: [Early Falcons] Crossmember for a XP to mount a XFlow




Hi All,

A few people have mounted Cross Flow 250's to XP's and similar, it is
just a case of taking the cross member from the donor car too. Or is
there more needed for the transplant (to bolt it in).

The same question is also applicable for a Windsor or Cleveland...

Thanks,
Dave






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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

g'day mate, I've got a set of four "Striker" mags and tyres for sale ......
they're an older kind of "mag" wheel.... they're chrome.......I don't know
if they are the same as your's....send me a pic of what you've got and I'll
let you know if they're the same.... mine are four stud 14-inch .... I
changed to five stud so they're no good to me anymore... thanks

my email address is   devilock66@...

regards
Tim.

>From: "Alec Mead" <rockdoc@...>
>Reply-To: earlyfalcons@...
>To: earlyfalcons@...
>Subject: [Early Falcons] Older Style Mag Wheels
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 10:27:59 -0000
>
>
>Howdy Boys & Girls,
>
>I have a 65 XP Coupe that has a set of Older Style mags, (Honecomb
>effect is about the best way I can describe them).   They're four
>studders not five, problem is, I have four, but I need a fifth as a
>spare.   Someone said they could be from a Cortina?
>
>I can supply photo's, anyone got any ideas??
>
>Cheers
>
>GrandPA DJ The Rock Doc
>
>
>

Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone had any spare transmission fluid lines
laying around.  The ones that run from the box to the radiator.
It's the tri-matic box off an XP.
Thanks
Greg

Thanks for the info Adam - the finishingdotcom site has a lot of
useful info too.

I had a chance to buy some NOS buckets a while ago and I'm
regretting not grabbing them - has anyone got NOS XM/XP buckets that
they want to sell ??
I'll have a go at restoring my existing buckets anyway...should be
an interesting exercise..

Cheers,

Paul


--- In earlyfalcons@..., remember_who <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
>
> I'm doing some at the moment.
>
> Based on my experience with metal finishers, you only get good
> results by either total DIY, or paying a major price.  The
> restoration process is more finiscky than anodising new BOVs, etc
so
> the modern dar crowd's practitioners aren't always the ones you
> want.
>
> Metal finishers are also often a bit of a mongrel breed, and you
are
> subject to their moods as they see fit.  Can make it hard to enjoy
> productive discussions.
>
> Websites like finishingdotcom will tell you how to strip anodising
> easily enough (the first step), but it's the beating and filing
and
> sanding afterwards that really make the difference.  Look for a
good
> set of buckets to begin with (paint can be paint-stripped off, so
> don't be deterred from painted ones).
>
> You shouldn't do any "working" of the metal with the anodising
> place.  It's apparently easy to create small fissures in the
surface
> that will either be increased by the anodising process, or will
> propagate deterioration of the finished surface.
>
> I chose to polish the "ribs" inside the bucket and will pick out
the
> flats between with GM black when it's done.  Most buckets are
> scratched somewhat in this area, and although it is not polished
as
> OEM, it's hard to imagine reanodising with the scratches
remaining -
> hence the polishing.
>
> In a nutshell - strip them and polish yourself, then send 'em off
for
> reanodising.  Beware; the black residue will stain your paws for a
> week.
>
> Cheers, Adam.

Hi can you sned me a pic andrew@...

Tim Hall <devilock66@...> wrote:g'day mate, I've got a set of four
"Striker" mags and tyres for sale ......
they're an older kind of "mag" wheel.... they're chrome.......I don't know
if they are the same as your's....send me a pic of what you've got and I'll
let you know if they're the same.... mine are four stud 14-inch .... I
changed to five stud so they're no good to me anymore... thanks

my email address is   devilock66@...

regards
Tim.

>From: "Alec Mead" <rockdoc@...>
>Reply-To: earlyfalcons@...
>To: earlyfalcons@...
>Subject: [Early Falcons] Older Style Mag Wheels
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 10:27:59 -0000
>
>
>Howdy Boys & Girls,
>
>I have a 65 XP Coupe that has a set of Older Style mags, (Honecomb
>effect is about the best way I can describe them).   They're four
>studders not five, problem is, I have four, but I need a fifth as a
>spare.   Someone said they could be from a Cortina?
>
>I can supply photo's, anyone got any ideas??
>
>Cheers
>
>GrandPA DJ The Rock Doc
>
>
>




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Hi the wheel you sent me is called a hotwire they were made by cheviot or
performance wheels. The most likely to fit will be off a datsun 1600 180b or
bluebird, the bluebird is prob the most likely as they had a 14" standard fit
wheel
cheers Jonesy

Alec Mead <rockdoc@...> wrote:

Howdy Boys & Girls,

I have a 65 XP Coupe that has a set of Older Style mags, (Honecomb
effect is about the best way I can describe them).   They're four
studders not five, problem is, I have four, but I need a fifth as a
spare.   Someone said they could be from a Cortina?

I can supply photo's, anyone got any ideas??

Cheers

GrandPA DJ The Rock Doc





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

    To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/earlyfalcons/

    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
earlyfalcons-unsubscribe@...

    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.




---------------------------------
Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]