If using polyprop honeycomb, the vertical strip  as used by
Farrierlooks pretty good,

 

Yes, but glassing the bottom and topsides in one side full length on a table, then bending it to shape and glassing the inside will be quicker, easier and lighter.  The top section will require some cuts, so that may be easier in a mould or frames.

 

possibly even vacuuming into a female mould
if iit can handle vacuum.(though I don't find fairing concave
surfaces for female moulds easy).

 

Use a piece of conduit and glue the sandpaper to it.  Still not as easy as a male mould, but not too difficult. Keep the conduit aligned fore and aft, but move it at 45 degrees.   Remember, it only has to be fair, not smooth.

 

It wouldn't necessarily have to be
a full atmosphere. It may be there is a happy medium that the barrier
can handle.

 

Good point.  Experimentation will show this pretty quickly.

 

Is there much distortion of the honeycomb under vacuum?

Should not be, although the scrim between the cells will probably depress.  I suspect print through will be a problem as well.

On quantities:For a Harry it would probably need at least 50 sheets
so that wouldn't be a problem. Though in the short term I am
considering playing with some to make a dinghy and a fold up kayak
but double handling and freight up to Darwin would probably negate
joining in on a bulk buy

 

Fair enough, but when you place the small order try to negotiate a rebate for these sheets, when you place the big order

As the ww hull is so lightly loaded would you need more than double
bias and a few stringers for any more than the centre of  the lw
hull.

 

No. 

regards,

 

Rob

--- In harryproa@..., "Rob Denney" <proa@i...> wrote:
>
>
> I have been told a few times by learned authorities that schooner
rigs
> don't point well :-)
>
> Yesterday it was a Foundation 36 (well equipped quick  keel boat
which they use for the Match Racing championships here).  About 5
knots of breeze, we tacked behind him and climbed up and past.  Then
the breeze kicked in, and the new beam mounted rudder broke.  Not
enough reinforcing onto the drum.  Easy enough to fix and before it
happened, we proved that beam mounted rudders do work. (13 knots in
10 knots breeze).  Makes the boats even easier to build, although
because of the small amount of bury on the rudder shaft, the loads
are very high.
>
> I'm liking that polyprop honeycomb more and more. Certainly for any
> simple curves. I am not sure how much more expensive it is and have
> asked for pricing for comparisons but it has to win when you
consider
> effort, weight and resiliance. There is the extra glass needed,
> triaxial rather than double diagonal, and pssibly extra resin-
though
> the choice of facing there shouldn't be too much difference.
>
> The polyprop does not soak up resin, as there is a barrier between
the scrim and the honeycomb.  Not sure it would withstand vacuum,
though.  The price of kiri has gone through the roof, so polyprop
looks pretty good.  A discount kicks in at 50 sheets, so maybe we
could combine a few orders and get it cheaper? 
>
> The bow section of the boats is not highly loaded.  You could use
double bias, with a strip of uni top and bottom and on each side back
to the beams, then triax between the beams. 
>
>
> regards,
>
> rob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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