Mine are ply, cause that is what I had. One of El's is foam and glass
panels. Worked well as far as I can remember. Just glassed the
inside of the ww hull, will let you know when i am ready for the deck.

regards,
Rob

On Tue, Oct 7, 2008 at 10:08 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
> It may just be easier depending on you rgetting the polcore on flush in line
> to the shaft, and doing both bits, then there is litle space to get bog
> inside , then the grinding ,and joining, etc and all staying tstraight is
> not as simple as a one foam slab.
> You'll see what I mean - or are your as done that I saw there with the ply
> tail piece?
>
> Let me know if you want the corenre edge radiui back.
>
> Doug
>
> --- On Mon, 6/10/08, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> From: Rob Denney <harryproa@...>
> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Re: Seating/tramp for quick and dirty proa?
> To: harryproa@...
> Date: Monday, 6 October, 2008, 10:16 PM
>
> G'day,
>
> Can do it in solid foam but it means more shaping. Once the Polycore (or
> foam) panels are the correct stiffness, you should end up with a blade that
> needs little or no shaping or bogging.
>
> Let me know when you want the hull numbers.
>
> regards,
> Rob
>
> On Mon, Oct 6, 2008 at 4:48 PM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo. co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> Hi ,
>>
>> just finishing rudders, pretty simple in the swing up mechanisms, but
>> takes a while with the blade pieces and fairing. Wonder about doign it same
>> as elementarry rudder blade - all foam, rather than the polycore stuck on
>> the back and foam on front.
>> the polycore is not really too bad but the technique for shaping with the
>> single bit of foam seems easier.
>>
>> Hold up on hulls , while arrange yard space. Waiting list to get in!
>>
>> DOug
>>
>> --- On Sat, 4/10/08, Todd <bitme1234@yahoo. com> wrote:
>>
>> From: Todd <bitme1234@yahoo. com>
>> Subject: [harryproa] Re: Seating/tramp for quick and dirty proa?
>> To: harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au
>> Date: Saturday, 4 October, 2008, 3:07 AM
>>
>> --- In harryproa@yahoogrou ps.com.au, "Gardner Pomper" <gardner@... >
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi,
>> > Also, still looking for rudder dimension suggestions. I am guess
>> at 1'x4'
>> > for each rudder blade, about 1.5" thick at the center and tapered
>> to each
>> > end. Asymmetrical, flat on the lw side and rounded on the ww side.
>> >
>> > Finally, I will be painting the hulls with epoxy to protect the
>> wood. What
>> > kind of paint can I put over epoxy? Do I need primer?
>> >
>> > Is it adequate to just epoxy/fiberglass below the waterline and
>> just paint
>> > it above?
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> >
>> > - Gardner
>>
>> Gardner ,
>>
>> My opinion for rudders, I'm going with a width between 14''-18''
>> and a length between 5'-7' with an even rectangle shape blade top to
>> bottom. A thickness between 1.5 -2.5 inches having flat leeward side
>> and curved windward.
>>
>> about wood finishing depending on how long and with what kind of
>> fuss you are willing to do now or down the road. Id' glass entire
>> inside and out knowing you are using 1/8 ply and prime and paint
>> with a interlux brightside. I have had excellent long lasting
>> results on epoxy finished wood. Not so good with just primered and
>> painted wood. If you want it to last with out alot of hassle I'd go
>> with at least epoxy coated wood then prim and paint with a paint
>> similar to Pre-kote primer and interlux brightside paint.
>>
>> What ever become of your model?
>>
>> Todd
>>
>>
>
>
>