G'day,

The smallest bury we have done is 750mm on 11m length, which is 6.8%,
so 3' on 39 (7.7%) is possible, but make sure you actually do have 3'
by the time the skin thickness and hull shape are allowed for. I
would make the mast exactly the length of the container.

You also have beam clearance to consider. Tipping the lee hull on
it's side and tucking it under the bridge deck may be another option,
as may be tilting the ww hull.

regards,

rob

On Sat, Dec 6, 2008 at 10:56 AM, Gardner Pomper <gardner@...> wrote:
> It seems as soon as I finish one layout idea and post it, another pops up.
> If I assume that my mast will be 39' or less, how much height in the lw hull
> is required to support them? It occurs to me that I could make the lw hull
> smaller and lower and the ww hull deck wider and slide right over the top of
> the lw hull if I could get away with about 3' of support for the masts. Is
> that enough?
>
> - Gardner
>
> On Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 8:50 PM, Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
>>
>> .
>> >
>> > There are a few features I would be particularly interested in getting
>> > feedback on. Fitting a
>> > boat like this into a container while sitting on its trailer is a tight
>> > squeeze. Since the
>> > preferred building technique is bending large flat panels, one issue is
>> > the tolerances of
>> > dimensions for the final boats. Assuming that a professional builder (I
>> > am thinking the
>> > chinese yard Rob is currently dealing with), if the design calls for a
>> > boat that collapses to
>> > 7'6", how likely is it that it will end up at 7'7" or even 7'8"? An inch
>> > or two may make all
>> > the difference in terms of getting it through the container door.
>>
>> The build technique can certainly handle that level of precision. I
>> am assured that the qc in China is excellent. If the width is part of
>> the spec, then if they don't achieve it, they will have to start
>> again. However, achieving it is pretty simple as the flat panels are
>> placed in frames, which can be very accurate.
>> >
>> > Another question deals with maneuvering the trailer. Is it reasonable to
>> > think that one (not
>> > me, some other one) could back a 39' boat, 7'6" wide into a 39'6"
>> > container, 7'8" wide? Is
>> > that really enough margin?
>>
>> Not really, but it could be done. I would put pieces of foam down the
>> sides and let it rub against them. Need to think about trailer design
>> as well. If it will need a crane to assemble it and/or put it in/out
>> of the water, you may be better off using rollers to get it in and
>> out. An inch each side will be plenty if this is done. I would also
>> buy your own container rather than use a different one each time.
>> Allows you to customise it.
>> >
>> > The aspect ratio of the sails is another question. With the schooner
>> > rig, I am hoping to
>> > keep the masts at 39'. The boom will be about 9' from the bottom, so I
>> > could have a 30'
>> > luff, and a 10' foot. With a full roach, I am thinking I might get 225
>> > sq ft per sail, or 450
>> > sq ft overall. Is this adequate? Is the rig too squat to work well?
>>
>> Depends what the boat weighs, but top of my head I would say you are
>> probably ok. Harry has 450 sq' and seems to get along ok. I usually
>> work on 80% plus for the roach, so that is 240 sq' per sail.
>> >
>> > I gather from other discussions that the chinese version of Rapscallion
>> > is estimate to run
>> > about $30K. I am hoping to bring this in just a little over; maybe $40K.
>> > Any opinions on
>> > my rationality?
>>
>> Another data point: The 15m hulls, decks, beams and cabin, joined and
>> painted quote is $47,000. Fitout, rig and steering to be added.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Rob
>
>