You can set the sort order of messages. Just click on the link in the date column. Your preferences will be remembered, so you don't have to do it again when you return.
I did just what you are saying, and for the same reasons. It turned out to be considerably more expensive that I had estimated, primarily in the cost of epoxy. I ended up using 4 gallons on just the hulls (haven't made the crossbeams or rudders yet), mostly in fillets on the stringers.
I have now (almost) gotten started with the vacuum infusion, and from my understanding it looks like it will be cheaper and easier doing that than what I have already done. Of course, I could be wrong about this also <grin>.
Where are you located? You are welcome to come by and take a look at my plywood proa if you are anywhere near York, PA.
You might also consider the harriette as your base model. I bought those plans from Rob for the same reason as you say. I actually need a "fat" version for heavier crew, but I have not pressed him on it because he has been so busy.
This actually ties into the next thing I have been considering asking him. I have been drawing plans and 3D models of a camper modelled on Sidecar. I just haven't decided if it is too big a job for my first infusion boat; or if I should just build a dinghy first, so again, I can wait.
I have various thoughts in the Files sections under "Gardner's Layouts/Camper", but they are a bit out of date. Based on Doug's comments, I think I will go for an easy rig and I am trying to trim the size of what I had drawn before.
Good luck, whatever you decide
- Gardner Pomper
York, PA
On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 4:26 PM, jrwells2007 <jrwells2007@...> wrote:
I am considering trying out the proa concept with a quick and dirty
version of an Elementarry Camper (Rob, when I get to starting I shall
pay for the plans even if I only vaguely follow them - your concept
and calculations after all).
In small boat sizes I am lead to believe that stitch and glue ply is
as good as any system for light weight and ease of construction. As
this would be quick and dirty (and cheap), longevity is not a
consideration.
I am thinking of slab sided, flat bottomed and slim. Easy to build
quickly and the slimness maintains good speed potential despite the
hard chines. I previously owned an F27 and it is for about this speed
that I am aiming.
Am I missing something or does this look possible given that I am
happy working with wood?
I am considering trying out the proa concept with a quick and dirty version of an Elementarry Camper (Rob, when I get to starting I shall pay for the plans...
Hi, I did just what you are saying, and for the same reasons. It turned out to be considerably more expensive that I had estimated, primarily in the cost of...
G'day, No problem at all. I have built a few flat bottomed proas, all worked well. Main decision is whether to put any rocker in. I wouldn't, as the boat...
Next step then: I am thinking in terms of ww hull 2 sheets of ply long (just under 16 feet) and lw hull 3 sheets of ply long (just under 24 feet) - no rocker...
I am building a Harriette from ply. For the ww hull, I am giving a v-bottom and bending the sides into the bilges. This means a bit of cutting and shaping at...
Intending stitch and glue for any non-right-angle joints. With a flat, non-rocker, hull and slab sides I might just use chine stringers and glue the ply to the...
I thought that was Roobert writing about making a harriette. An introduction to who you are and where you live? Â Doug Mandurah ... From: jrwells2007...
Based in England, west coast. Been sailing for 50 years, mainly one design dinghy and one design keelboat racing on the east coast; some big boat cruising and...
Hi gang, Â Just like to put some attention back on the Elementarry racer. Sailing on Rob's (fair while ago now), it really is far and away the quickest thing...
-I have some cedar which I have been ripping into 15x15mm strips. The strips are glued at deck edges and keel. 3 x 90 degrees only gives 270 degrees so the...
-I wonder about achieving F27 speeds with a flat bottomed system as once the bow depresses under sailing loads, there is a hard edge for the water to go...
Thanks for the comment - I had forgotten that having no rocker would create this problem - I was thinking about dory or sharpie type construction but of course...
Hello,  You can get a round chine with plywood on frame / stitch and glue construction by putting two stringers, one each side of chine (or leave out and...
Hi George, Were you using polyester resin with the CSM. Can you use epoxy with the CSM. ... From: jrwells2007 <jrwells2007@...> Subject: [harryproa]...
   Further to quick and dirty I like Dudley Dix method of radius chine in particular to his catamaran hulls. Flat ply sides then radius chine 2 layers...
I was using system three epoxy. It is more difficult wetting out CSM with epoxy do to the binder in the mat but it does work. It takes longer for fibers to...
 George, given your experience do you have any comment on the Dix radius chine method. Previously I had thought it was only applicable to his Didi series then...
One more thing I forgot to mention, when wetting out thick strips of fiberglass I find it easier to wet them out on table or in shallow troth horizontally...
I think the method I described is used mostly for joining multi chine boats. Bending plywood would probably work better for round bottom or larger radius...
 Continued challenges. In preparation for an indulgence in a ply try build I would like to use vinylester resin. I worked on a Disneyland Hotel project in HK...
George do you know anything about the Command 10? Was it a plywood precursor to the F series? Â Did you design your float hulls as higher buoyancy? ... From:...
Priming with MEKP is a serious fire hazard. MEKP can cause flammable materials to burst into flame. (rags used to wipe up a spill should be wetted with water,...
Hello,  The Command 10 was a wood strip planked boat as I remember. It came out (or I found out abought it) after I had started construction of the TT720...
Hello, For laminating fiberglass on plywood, If I were doing it now I would use vynil ester resin and put a well catalysed prime coat on first (non waxed,air...
Forgot to mention , yes the float hulls will have slightly more buoyancy, they are one foot longer overall and 1 1/2 to 2" inches wider. The old hull was...
 Peter, thanks for your reply, I will make some further tests with the coupling agent added.  The Hydroxyl Methylated Resorsinol primed Gluelam beams that...
Offline 
Send Email
