You can do that ! Might be more work if you did have some
damage to the ground plate and it needed to be replaced but
your idea certainly can work ! Don't forget the bonding strip also
has to be attached to the ground plate.

Regards,

JT

--- In harryproa@..., "Robert"
<cateran1949@y...> wrote:
> It is possible to TIG weld copper pipe to a copper plate, let the
> pipe go through the hull from below, seal the hole with flexible
goop
> and put a loose compression fitting between the pipe through
the hull
> and the pipe coming down. Avoids dissimilar metals except for
the
> compression fitting which could be replaced periodically fairly
> easily. Wouldn't that sort of voltage drive a current straight
> through a little bit of surface corrosion? I t might be solidly
> welded after the strike though.
> robert
> Robert
> --- In harryproa@..., "jjtctaylor"
<jtaylor412@c...>
> wrote:
> > Robert,
> >
> > No it doesn't have to be fancy, but we have a couple of
realities
> to
> > address....... Your suggestion can work yet we have to "thimk"
of
> > realities. Copper pipe corrodes. It's OK if the all the
> conducters
> > are welded together or clamped on (USE NO SOLDER - IT
WILL
> > VAPORIZE). The loose fitting if stays in contact and has no
> > corrosion will work fine. Same goes for any clamped on
> > conductor.
> >
> > The other point is we have to get that high current through the
> > hull. Likely the grounding plate will have thru bolts and the
> plate
> > bedded on some water sealant goop. The bolt is our way
out, so
> > we have to maximize the contact without a sharp turn.
> >
> > Perhaps the nut on top of the bolt is a cone with a threaded
thru
> > hole. The cone is inverted. The base of the cone has a
flange
> > and shoulder for the pipe to seat and rotate. (Could also be
a
> > recessed hole. I would probably weld something that
doesn't
> > tarnish, good conductivity and would wear as easily as
copper
> > onto the base of the pipe. I will talk to a metallurgist.
> > Compression fitting same idea just want to watch out for
tarnish
> > and be sure the surface area contact is sufficent or you will
have
> > an arc. (AND lots of splattered molten metal)
> >
> > The other simple solution is terminate your pipe some
elevation
> > above the ground plate and clamp onto it your braided 4
gage
> > conductor. Connect that cable to the ground plate thru bolt.
> > Leave a little slack for it to twist some 300 degrees. I would
> > check it once a year for damage to the braided wires due to
> > flexing.
> >
> > Lots of options just be sure the contact is good, clean and
> > sufficient plus avoid the bends/ turns. Watch that all the
metals
> > chosen can handle the current.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > JT
> >
> > --- In harryproa@..., "Robert"
> > <cateran1949@y...> wrote:
> > > -In reference to the 3/8 pipe lightning rod, would a loose
> > > compression fitting over a flanged end provide enough
> > flexibility to
> > > allow the 330 degree twist if the pipe is supported with the
> > spacing
> > > discs to keep it perpendicular and avoiding binding, or
would
> > you
> > > need to go to something fancier?