Thank you for the offer to forward my questions to the Yahoo discussion

group. I think that some or all of the following questions may be most

suitably addressed directly to Rob or Mark. I must ask you to make that

decision.

These questions are specifically regarding the modified Visionary with

enclosed salon as shown on your www site. I expect some of these

questions are low on your list of priorities, but these must be

addressed by anyone building a vessel for long term live aboard/ cruising.

Hi Jim,

Answers to your questions:

1. Location for batteries: Where are batteries for electrics and

engine starting to be stored?

Under the saloon seats. We are using AGM batteries which don't require any ventilation, though this can be provided through the saloon floor. There is enough space for two 250 AH batteries though we are hoping one will suffice, being 50kg each.

2. Propane Tanks: Where are the propane tanks for cooker and heating

to be stored? My vote is under the dinette seat and having a drain

through the hull topside.

We prefer to locate them outside in a box which becomes the cockpit seat back. It is well ventilated and can carry two 9kg bottles.

3. Mounting of Auxiliary equipment: Where to mount wind generator?

Radar? Solar panels are on the salon roof. Perhaps Mark has drawn a

clever low windage arch for the windward decks? I am trying to keep

costs down while maintaining the good aesthetics, and maintaining

practicality.

The owner doesn't like wind generators so this boat won't have one. We are intending to locate a 50mm mast on the saloon roof to carry nav lights, ariels etc so this could also carry a wind generator. The three 80w solar panels will be mounted on the saloon roof extension above the cockpit.

4. Large windows = Large heat gain. Besides the usual cloth covers

seen on so many of the fat cats, it would be nice to have benefit of

light and clear view, without the direct solar gain. Maybe a nice brow

just above the windows area?. Also, ala the French fat cats, these

large windows could be hatches that open. Not as pretty, but better for

ventilation. A brow would allow them to be opened in inclement weather

too.

A brow could certainly be designed and makes lots of sense. The downside is it takes up more interior room making the saloon feel smaller, has more windage, doesn't look as good and is more work and expense. I do like them though.

5. Spray protection for the helmsperson, especially when on the wind in

the North Atlantic.: I saw mention of this subject on the Yahoo group,

but did not see a suggestion for improvement. Perhaps improvement is

not needed? If it is, the salon can be extended to form a three sided

enclosure with removable windows; more windage, less spray.

Anything is possible and this is a good solution. The saloon can also be extended out to give a pilot station pointing in both directions. The trick is to keep windage, weight and costs to a minimum. For our local conditions this boat will just have a piece of Perspex/Lexan set vertically between the wheels offering some protection to the helmsman in both directions.

6. Anchor and rode: Where to stow 250 ft of 5/16 inch dia anchor

chain and two anchors ready to deploy? My thoughts: Stow an anchor in

roller chock near center of each beam (aka). Stow chain in

box/bucket/locker amidships, ready to be shackled to the appropriate

anchor. Snubber or vertical manual windlass is mounted on main fore/aft

beam near the chain locker. Nylon rope bridles live thus (one each end

of vessel): Center of bridle has a chain hook attached and stowed on

the beam near the anchor. The two rope ends go toward each "bow", pass

over a roller fairlead (roller chock) from seaward of the "bow", and

thence the bitter end to a cleat on deck near the respective beam end;

lots of roller chocks/fairleads in the system. To deploy anchor:

Shackle chain to anchor. Engage chain into the windlass gypsy. Shove

the anchor overboard. Snub the rode and set the anchor. Attach the

chain hook of the rope bridle to the chain and pay out chain as usual.

Adjust bridles as needed. To retrieve, reverse procedure.

All sounds workable. We are putting a chain locker and roller at amidships on the 'front' beam. This boat will motor and anchor in one direction only though we have a bridle set both ends for 'stern' anchoring. The bridle is attached to padeyes just back from the bows. If adjustment is necessary this can be done by attaching another line half way back along one bridle leading to a cleat. The owner of this boat is not using an anchor winch having never used the one on his last boat. I may put a winch pad on just in case he changes his mind.

7. Electronic autopilots: I think that after shunting they will be

disoriented. Not certain about this with the wheel pilots. My present

vessel uses tiller style autopilot (Autohelm 4000), and it must be told

whether it is mounted to starboard or to port of the tiller. Reversing

sides without reorientation of the software cause exactly incorrect

response to course deviation.

I think the wheel pilot will still work in the correct sense on each shunt. As both wheels will be locked together before and after each shunt only one pilot will be needed though will have to be disengaged during the shunt when the wheels are spinning in opposite directions. Imagine heading on a reach to the north, the pilot is rotating clockwise to turn east and anticlockwise to turn west. after a shunt the boat is heading south, the pilot still turns clockwise to go east and anticlockwise to go west. I too have only ever had tiller pilots so I may be wrong about this.

8. Mast bearing: How is water to be prevented getting in around the

mast where it penetrates deck of leeward hull? I suppose that if a

water tight compartment were built around the supports in the hull that

a relatively small amount of water could be tolerated and pumped out

when convenient. However, I would like to retain ability to visually

examine the mast step, bearings, etc.

We intend to put a rotating boot around the mast bearing. That still leaves water running down the inside of the mast from wet halyards etc. which can't be helped. A shallow dam around the maststep should stop this small amount of water running along the hull.

9. Shape of Leeward hull: If the dips in the deck of the leeward hull

were eliminated in favor of a straight slope from near the mast to the

pointy end, the mould and hulls would be easier to produce ( I think ).

The cost is a slight increase in windage. Shape would more nearly

resemble the windward hull (though this neither the goal nor necessary).

Just thinking of ways to make construction easier for the amateur

buildor. I notice that your large world class racer has higher bows and

a flatter deck.

Having straight slopes doesn't really help much when strip planking although would be a little easier in a foam mould. It would make quite a difference to the aesthetics and, as you have said, add a bit to windage. As these boats have to appeal to the wider market we want them to look as appealing as possible.

10 Mould release agent: I vote in favor of your ideas to use the cheap

female mould method to construct the hulls. Can you provide

sources/info on the mould release to which you have referred? I am

interested in trying to find a local source.

The product is called Safelease

Cheers,

Mark