My research into combination of wood and carbon does not give that
much financial advantage to going all carbon as the strength to price
ratio is not much difference between the quality wood needed and
carbon bought at the right price. There is a big difference in weight
and the differences in stretch characteristics makes it hard to
usefully match the two materials for a mast.
Many people have used laminated timber free standing masts and I could
imagine a laminated timber top section reinforced on the diagonal to
prevent splitting could work.
Be nice to see someone try it.
Robert
>
> Sounds really interesting. I hope it works.
>
> How much heavier does the mast have to be in order to gain this feature?
>
> Could the mast be constructed out of wood, carbon fiber without being
> too heavy?
>
>
>
>
> This might be overly optimistic, I was hoping for a telescoping mast
> in order to get under a bridge on a homebuilt
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In harryproa@..., "Rob Denney" <harryproa@> wrote:
> >
> > On Dec 30, 2007 1:28 PM, captian_rapscallion
> > <captian_rapscallion@> wrote:
> >
> > > I have several questions.
> > Keep 'em coming!
> > >
> > > Is the mast free standing?
> > Yes
> > >
> > > Is the mast keel stepped?
> > Yes, with a UHMPWE plastic bearing on the keel and another on the
deck.
> > >
> > > Is the section wing shaped?
> > Yes, a shortened Clark Y section, as per Tom Speer's logic.
> > >
> > > Is the mast metal or composite?
> > Carbon/epoxy infused in a female mould, each piece is built in 2
> > halves, the lower piece also has a sheer web.
> > >
> > > have you built a prototype?
> > No. The 15m one will be the first. I did not think the loads and
> > controls would scale up very accurately so did niot build a small one
> > first. As it is for me, it is a risk I am prepared to take.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rob
> > >
> > >
> >
>
Thanks Rob,
Sounds really interesting. I hope it works.
How much heavier does the mast have to be in order to gain this feature?
Could the mast be constructed out of wood, carbon fiber without being
too heavy?
This might be overly optimistic, I was hoping for a telescoping mast
in order to get under a bridge on a homebuilt
--- In harryproa@..., "Rob Denney" <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> On Dec 30, 2007 1:28 PM, captian_rapscallion
> <captian_rapscallion@...> wrote:
>
> > I have several questions.
> Keep 'em coming!
> >
> > Is the mast free standing?
> Yes
> >
> > Is the mast keel stepped?
> Yes, with a UHMPWE plastic bearing on the keel and another on the deck.
> >
> > Is the section wing shaped?
> Yes, a shortened Clark Y section, as per Tom Speer's logic.
> >
> > Is the mast metal or composite?
> Carbon/epoxy infused in a female mould, each piece is built in 2
> halves, the lower piece also has a sheer web.
> >
> > have you built a prototype?
> No. The 15m one will be the first. I did not think the loads and
> controls would scale up very accurately so did niot build a small one
> first. As it is for me, it is a risk I am prepared to take.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
> >
> >
>
On Dec 30, 2007 1:28 PM, captian_rapscallion
<captian_rapscallion@...> wrote:
> I have several questions.
Keep 'em coming!
>
> Is the mast free standing?
Yes
>
> Is the mast keel stepped?
Yes, with a UHMPWE plastic bearing on the keel and another on the deck.
>
> Is the section wing shaped?
Yes, a shortened Clark Y section, as per Tom Speer's logic.
>
> Is the mast metal or composite?
Carbon/epoxy infused in a female mould, each piece is built in 2
halves, the lower piece also has a sheer web.
>
> have you built a prototype?
No. The 15m one will be the first. I did not think the loads and
controls would scale up very accurately so did niot build a small one
first. As it is for me, it is a risk I am prepared to take.
Regards,
Rob
>
>
I have several questions.
Is the mast free standing?
Is the mast keel stepped?
Is the section wing shaped?
Is the mast metal or composite?
have you built a prototype?
G'day,
The plan (works really well on my computer) is for the mast to reduce
from 15m to 8m off the deck using a single line. The sail is hoisted
before the top mast is raised, then both sail and top mast go up
together. Pretty simple in theory. The engineering is a bit complex,
as is the construction, although we have a few tricks we will be
trying for the latter.
Until mine is working, we are not quoting on them for anyone else, but
mine should be complete 'real soon now'. Any specific questions,
please ask.
regards,
rob
On Dec 29, 2007 9:05 PM, captian_rapscallion
<captian_rapscallion@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I want to hear more about the telescoping mast. For me, the extra
> weight of the mast so it could telescope would be well worth it if I
> could go under bridges.
>
>
I want to hear more about the telescoping mast. For me, the extra
weight of the mast so it could telescope would be well worth it if I
could go under bridges.
Still doing work to improve rig and steering. Be shakedown cruising somewhere South soon, then off later Jan.
Doug
Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
G'day,
I have the Sidecar and Solitarry pictures ready to post, when I get back home in mid Jan. By then Doug and Sidecar should be off on their trip around Northern Australia.
Lots happening, but for various reasons not much can be made public at this stage. Hopefully early next year things will be
back to normal and we can make some announcements and get everything up to date.
regards,
Rob
On Dec 20, 2007 12:15 PM, Robert <cateran1949@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > > > > > > > -waiting with bated breath for the next development of the Harry. Love > to see the promised photos of Sidecar and Solitarry I am still keen to > get a Harry but health and wealth defy me. The concept still makes the > most sense to me and the boats out there look pretty good. If I had > the cash I'd probably just buy Bain's Aroha and get sailing. > Meanwhile I'm investigating doing a KSS system using polyprop and > epoxy with an end bulkhead with foam ends. > Robert > > -- In harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au, "vertiges59" <vertiges59@...> wrote: >
> > > Nobody more in this group ????? > > > >
Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try
it now.
G'day,
I have the Sidecar and Solitarry pictures ready to post, when I get
back home in mid Jan. By then Doug and Sidecar should be off on their
trip around Northern Australia.
Lots happening, but for various reasons not much can be made public at
this stage. Hopefully early next year things will be back to normal
and we can make some announcements and get everything up to date.
regards,
Rob
On Dec 20, 2007 12:15 PM, Robert <cateran1949@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -waiting with bated breath for the next development of the Harry. Love
> to see the promised photos of Sidecar and Solitarry I am still keen to
> get a Harry but health and wealth defy me. The concept still makes the
> most sense to me and the boats out there look pretty good. If I had
> the cash I'd probably just buy Bain's Aroha and get sailing.
> Meanwhile I'm investigating doing a KSS system using polyprop and
> epoxy with an end bulkhead with foam ends.
> Robert
>
> -- In harryproa@..., "vertiges59" <vertiges59@...> wrote:
> >
> > Nobody more in this group ?????
> >
>
>
-waiting with bated breath for the next development of the Harry. Love
to see the promised photos of Sidecar and Solitarry I am still keen to
get a Harry but health and wealth defy me. The concept still makes the
most sense to me and the boats out there look pretty good. If I had
the cash I'd probably just buy Bain's Aroha and get sailing.
Meanwhile I'm investigating doing a KSS system using polyprop and
epoxy with an end bulkhead with foam ends.
Robert
-- In harryproa@..., "vertiges59" <vertiges59@...> wrote:
>
> Nobody more in this group ?????
>
-----Original Message----- From: harryproa@... [mailto:harryproa@...] On Behalf Of vertiges59 Sent: Wednesday, 19 December 2007 11:57 PM To: harryproa@... Subject: [harryproa] Anyone there ?
I retired a while back and had a lot of time for boats and such, but....
Murphy's law that says: Any task will expand to fill the available time.
And, my Wife has proved the hypothesis......
I love Harrys
Oils is up>Chemicals are Up>Fiberglass, Epoxy, Carbon is up>Boat vuilding is way down
----- Original Message ---- From: jhargrovewright2 <jhargrovewright2@...> To: harryproa@... Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:08:14 AM Subject: [harryproa] Re: Anyone there ?
> That is leeward Ron. > > Mark > > >
................................... > Mark Stephens > www.harryproa.com >> -----Original Message----- >> From: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au >> [mailto:harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au] On Behalf Of Ron Badley >> Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 2:12 PM >> To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au >> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Solitarry Cruisability >> >> >> Hey Rob, I think Doug was interested in LW (leeward hulls). >> >> RonB. >> >> On 19-Nov-07, at 7:03 PM, Rob Denney wrote: >> >> > G'day, >> > >> > Substantial. Solitarry is much lower (1.2 in the middle, 0.6 at the >> > ends vs 2.1 and 1. Solitarry is 0.6 wide vs
Vis 1m. Vis has an all >> > up weight of 4.7 tonnes, Solitarry 0.7. >> > >> > Solitarry will be much cheaper, much faster, much less spacious. >> > >> > regards, >> > >> > Rob >> > >> > >> > On Nov 20, 2007 10:53 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Hi Rob, >> >> >> >> What 's the diffrence in LW hulls, Solitarry and Visionarry? >> >> >> >> DOug >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> >> Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it >> >> now. >> >> >>
> >> > >> > >> > Yahoo!7 Groups Links >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >
Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try
it now.
So sorry, not sure what made me think Rob was talking about windward
hull. Type first, think later.
RonB.
On 19-Nov-07, at 7:13 PM, <mark@...> wrote:
> That is leeward Ron.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ...................................
> Mark Stephens
> www.harryproa.com
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: harryproa@...
>> [mailto:harryproa@...] On Behalf Of Ron Badley
>> Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 2:12 PM
>> To: harryproa@...
>> Subject: Re: [harryproa] Solitarry Cruisability
>>
>>
>> Hey Rob, I think Doug was interested in LW (leeward hulls).
>>
>> RonB.
>>
>> On 19-Nov-07, at 7:03 PM, Rob Denney wrote:
>>
>> > G'day,
>> >
>> > Substantial. Solitarry is much lower (1.2 in the middle, 0.6 at the
>> > ends vs 2.1 and 1. Solitarry is 0.6 wide vs Vis 1m. Vis has an all
>> > up weight of 4.7 tonnes, Solitarry 0.7.
>> >
>> > Solitarry will be much cheaper, much faster, much less spacious.
>> >
>> > regards,
>> >
>> > Rob
>> >
>> >
>> > On Nov 20, 2007 10:53 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Hi Rob,
>> >>
>> >> What 's the diffrence in LW hulls, Solitarry and Visionarry?
>> >>
>> >> DOug
>> >>
>> >> ________________________________
>> >> Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it
>> >> now.
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Yahoo!7 Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
-----Original Message----- From: harryproa@... [mailto:harryproa@...] On Behalf Of Ron Badley Sent: Tuesday, 20 November 2007 2:12 PM To: harryproa@... Subject: Re: [harryproa] Solitarry Cruisability
Hey Rob, I think Doug was interested in LW (leeward hulls).
RonB.
On 19-Nov-07, at 7:03 PM, Rob Denney wrote:
> G'day, > > Substantial. Solitarry is much lower (1.2 in the middle, 0.6 at the > ends vs 2.1 and 1. Solitarry is 0.6 wide vs Vis 1m. Vis has an all > up weight of 4.7 tonnes, Solitarry 0.7. > > Solitarry will be much cheaper, much faster, much less spacious. > > regards, > > Rob > > > On Nov 20, 2007 10:53 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Hi Rob, >> >> What 's the diffrence in LW hulls, Solitarry and Visionarry? >> >> DOug >> >> ________________________________ >> Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it >> now. >> > > > > Yahoo!7 Groups Links > > > >
Hey Rob, I think Doug was interested in LW (leeward hulls).
RonB.
On 19-Nov-07, at 7:03 PM, Rob Denney wrote:
> G'day,
>
> Substantial. Solitarry is much lower (1.2 in the middle, 0.6 at the
> ends vs 2.1 and 1. Solitarry is 0.6 wide vs Vis 1m. Vis has an all
> up weight of 4.7 tonnes, Solitarry 0.7.
>
> Solitarry will be much cheaper, much faster, much less spacious.
>
> regards,
>
> Rob
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2007 10:53 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Rob,
>>
>> What 's the diffrence in LW hulls, Solitarry and Visionarry?
>>
>> DOug
>>
>> ________________________________
>> Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it
>> now.
>>
>
>
>
> Yahoo!7 Groups Links
>
>
>
>
G'day,
Substantial. Solitarry is much lower (1.2 in the middle, 0.6 at the
ends vs 2.1 and 1. Solitarry is 0.6 wide vs Vis 1m. Vis has an all
up weight of 4.7 tonnes, Solitarry 0.7.
Solitarry will be much cheaper, much faster, much less spacious.
regards,
Rob
On Nov 20, 2007 10:53 AM, Doug Haines <doha720@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Rob,
>
> What 's the diffrence in LW hulls, Solitarry and Visionarry?
>
> DOug
>
> ________________________________
> Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Try it now.
>
-----Original Message----- From: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au [mailto:harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au] On Behalf Of Douglas Alexander Frank Haines Sent: Thursday, 15 November 2007 3:45 PM To: harryproa@yahoogroups.com.au Subject: [harryproa] SideCar
Hi,
The boats going great.
Sorry no phots.
Will try get some soon.
Also speed measurements. Seems a knot or two quicker.
Handles properly now too.
Plus got lines for up and down rudder, so no moiving from
deckcockpit.
Doug
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.
At 03:03 31-10-2007, you wrote:
>I bought plans for a DF31 Hughes design. I want to build a smaller
>tri before the the 31.
>I was hoping to use freeship to design a tri and use nidacore and
>KSS method to build it. I
>just want to make the mistakes on a smaller scale i guess..
Then, start with your dinghy.
Design it , build it .
Then sell it , if you don't need one. :-)
Regards, Han.
-Good one Doug. Looking forward to the photos,
Robert-- In harryproa@..., "Douglas Alexander Frank
Haines" <doha720@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The boats going great.
>
> Sorry no phots.
>
> Will try get some soon.
>
> Also speed measurements.
> Seems a knot or two quicker.
>
> Handles properly now too.
>
> Plus got lines for up and down rudder, so no moiving from deckcockpit.
>
> Doug
>
-----Original Message----- From: harryproa@... [mailto:harryproa@...] On Behalf Of Douglas Alexander Frank Haines Sent: Thursday, 15 November 2007 3:45 PM To: harryproa@... Subject: [harryproa] SideCar
Hi,
The boats going great.
Sorry no phots.
Will try get some soon.
Also speed measurements. Seems a knot or two quicker.
Handles properly now too.
Plus got lines for up and down rudder, so no moiving from deckcockpit.
Hi,
The boats going great.
Sorry no phots.
Will try get some soon.
Also speed measurements.
Seems a knot or two quicker.
Handles properly now too.
Plus got lines for up and down rudder, so no moiving from deckcockpit.
Doug
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad to hear a 31' boat
isn't a huge project, the people I talk to around here
think I'm crazy.
--- Rob Denney <harryproa@...> wrote:
> G'day,
>
> There is quite a bit more to the shaping part of KSS
> than meets the eye,
> and I doubt if you will get a decent hull shape if
> you do it yourself. You
> could ask Derek to have a look at Kurt's design, but
> these two have not got
> on with each other for years, so I doubt he will.
>
> Another option is to infuse it over Kurt's Cylinder
> mould and then use his
> hull panel to cut it out. Check with him first, as
> the foam/glass may not
> torture enough, in which case, you could leave off
> the glass on one side off
> some of it. Unlike table infusion, this will not
> give you a fair, smooth
> exterior topsides finish, unless you build a female
> mould.
>
> Bottom line is you are probably better off building
> as to the instructions,
> then fairing it by hand. A 31footer is not a huge
> project. I would start
> with the smaller items and learn on those, then the
> outriggers, and finally
> the main hull and the beams. Or, built a 1/2 or 1/3
> scale model of the 31.
> Designing is fun, but using your first design to
> learn how to laminate is
> probably a waste of time and materials which would
> be better spent on the
> real thing.
>
> regards,
>
> Rob
>
> On 10/31/07, captian_rapscallion
> <captian_rapscallion@... > wrote:
> >
> >
> > I bought plans for a DF31 Hughes design. I want to
> build a smaller tri
> > before the the 31.
> > I was hoping to use freeship to design a tri and
> use nidacore and KSS
> > method to build it. I
> > just want to make the mistakes on a smaller scale
> i guess..
> >
> > --- In harryproa@...
> <harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au>, "Rob
> > Denney" <harryproa@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > G'day,
> > >
> > > All good advice. A couple of points:
> > > 1) Nidaplast/Polycore does not need to be
> vacuumed to get a good bond to
> > the
> > > core, unlike foam.
> > > 2) There have been some reports of porous scrim,
> allowing the cells to
> > fill
> > > up when infused. Rolling on a layer of resin and
> letting it gel fixes
> > the
> > > problem.
> > > 3) Resin infusion on a flat table (the way Derek
> Kelsall does it) is a
> > lot
> > > less prone to problems than infusing in a mould,
> particularly with
> > segmented
> > > cores. Not only do the segmented cores soak up a
> lot of resin, they also
> > > create hard spots, interrupting the resin flow.
> > > 4) There is plenty of advice available, ranging
> from free (much of which
> > is
> > > excellent) to very expensive (some of which is
> dubious), but by far the
> > best
> > > way to learn is to do some samples. Use a piece
> of glass as the table so
> > > you can see what is going on underneath.
> Attending a KSS workshop is
> > also
> > > an excellent idea.
> > > 5) Shade cloth works well as an infusion mediam.
> > > 6) Are you the same Rapscallion who is building
> a Hughes tri?
> > >
> > > If you have any specific questions, please ask.
> > >
> > > regards,
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > On 10/26/07, Robert <cateran1949@...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ther are plenty of good sites on the web and I
> suggest you trawl
> > > > through the KSS yahoo groups postings as a
> start. I was looking at
> > > > using a similar polypropylene honeycomb
> 'polycore'for its resilience
> > > > and the research suggested it was relatively
> easy to infuse from the
> > > > top side but because of the fluffy polyester
> scrim welded to the
> > > > surface of the polyprop, it is not easy to
> build in the grooves for
> > > > resin transfer on the underneath side. There
> is no reason not to do
> > > > one side at a time but it takes away some of
> the ease. It was
> > > > suggested that some people have used bird net
> underneath - between the
> > > > glass and the table, to allow resin transfer.
> I haven't tried it but
> > > > it is on my to do list if I ever get clear
> enough to start.Other ideas
> > > > I have considered are grooves in the table ,
> making sure there was
> > > > peel ply over them. Both of these would
> probably leave surface effects
> > > > that could be a pain , depending on if you
> like patterned surfaces.
> > > > I have been looking at various methods for
> joining the pieces so as
> > > > not to ge4t excess weight from resin leaking
> into the joints , and the
> > > > welding of the surface film with attached
> scrim over the joint seems
> > > > an option, or glue it with something like
> purbond that can fill up the
> > > > cells, or even hot glue it. The other concern
> about the joints is the
> > > > possibility of having a hard line at the joint
> which could interfere
> > > > with a smooth bend.
> > > > If you find any info suitable please post it.
> THe KSS site people are
> > > > very helpful and freely exchange ideas.
> > > > Robert
> > > > I still reckon polyprop honeycomb is probably
> the most forgiving if
> > > > you bump anything- which I have done in every
> boat I have ever
> > > > skippered and most that I have crewed on- and
> the stuff from China is
> > > > a good price.
> > > > Robert.--- In
>
harryproa@...<harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au>
> > <harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au>,
> > > > "captian_rapscallion"
> > > > <captian_rapscallion@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I want to build a resin infusion boat. I'm
> also interested in
> > > > nidacore. can you tell me about
> > > > > the resin infusion process?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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There is quite a bit more to the shaping part of KSS than meets the eye, and I doubt if you will get a decent hull shape if you do it yourself. You could ask Derek to have a look at Kurt's design, but these two have not got on with each other for years, so I doubt he will.
Another option is to infuse it over Kurt's Cylinder mould and then use his hull panel to cut it out. Check with him first, as the foam/glass may not torture enough, in which case, you could leave off the glass on one side off some of it. Unlike table infusion, this will not give you a fair, smooth exterior topsides finish, unless you build a female mould.
Bottom line is you are probably better off building as to the instructions, then fairing it by hand. A 31footer is not a huge project. I would start with the smaller items and learn on those, then the outriggers, and finally the main hull and the beams. Or, built a 1/2 or 1/3 scale model of the 31. Designing is fun, but using your first design to learn how to laminate is probably a waste of time and materials which would be better spent on the real thing.
I bought plans for a DF31 Hughes design. I want to build a smaller tri before the the 31.
I was hoping to use freeship to design a tri and use nidacore and KSS method to build it. I
just want to make the mistakes on a smaller scale i guess..
--- In harryproa@..., "Rob Denney" <harryproa@...> wrote:
>
> G'day,
>
> All good advice. A couple of points:
> 1) Nidaplast/Polycore does not need to be vacuumed to get a good bond to the
> core, unlike foam.
> 2) There have been some reports of porous scrim, allowing the cells to fill
> up when infused. Rolling on a layer of resin and letting it gel fixes the
> problem.
> 3) Resin infusion on a flat table (the way Derek Kelsall does it) is a lot
> less prone to problems than infusing in a mould, particularly with segmented
> cores. Not only do the segmented cores soak up a lot of resin, they also
> create hard spots, interrupting the resin flow.
> 4) There is plenty of advice available, ranging from free (much of which is
> excellent) to very expensive (some of which is dubious), but by far the best
> way to learn is to do some samples. Use a piece of glass as the table so
> you can see what is going on underneath. Attending a KSS workshop is also
> an excellent idea.
> 5) Shade cloth works well as an infusion mediam.
> 6) Are you the same Rapscallion who is building a Hughes tri?
>
> If you have any specific questions, please ask.
>
> regards,
> Rob
>
> On 10/26/07, Robert <cateran1949@...> wrote:
> >
> > Ther are plenty of good sites on the web and I suggest you trawl
> > through the KSS yahoo groups postings as a start. I was looking at
> > using a similar polypropylene honeycomb 'polycore'for its resilience
> > and the research suggested it was relatively easy to infuse from the
> > top side but because of the fluffy polyester scrim welded to the
> > surface of the polyprop, it is not easy to build in the grooves for
> > resin transfer on the underneath side. There is no reason not to do
> > one side at a time but it takes away some of the ease. It was
> > suggested that some people have used bird net underneath - between the
> > glass and the table, to allow resin transfer. I haven't tried it but
> > it is on my to do list if I ever get clear enough to start.Other ideas
> > I have considered are grooves in the table , making sure there was
> > peel ply over them. Both of these would probably leave surface effects
> > that could be a pain , depending on if you like patterned surfaces.
> > I have been looking at various methods for joining the pieces so as
> > not to ge4t excess weight from resin leaking into the joints , and the
> > welding of the surface film with attached scrim over the joint seems
> > an option, or glue it with something like purbond that can fill up the
> > cells, or even hot glue it. The other concern about the joints is the
> > possibility of having a hard line at the joint which could interfere
> > with a smooth bend.
> > If you find any info suitable please post it. THe KSS site people are
> > very helpful and freely exchange ideas.
> > Robert
> > I still reckon polyprop honeycomb is probably the most forgiving if
> > you bump anything- which I have done in every boat I have ever
> > skippered and most that I have crewed on- and the stuff from China is
> > a good price.
> > Robert.--- In harryproa@...<harryproa%40yahoogroups.com.au>,
> > "captian_rapscallion"
> > <captian_rapscallion@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I want to build a resin infusion boat. I'm also interested in
> > nidacore. can you tell me about
> > > the resin infusion process?
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
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